BETA PHOTO: 15 Flakes 5.7 15a Flakes Old School Start
Description
This route starts about thirty feet to the left of Main Crack and climbs up a flake system with small cracks off to your left. It offers some great face moves. There are two bolts where there isn't gear.
If you plan on toproping this climb you will probably want a 70M rope. I hear that it can be done with a 60M, but I didn't see 10M left when using our 70M. If you are up at on Ed and Terry wall doing Main Crack take the time to do this climb.
Protection
Small gear stoppers and cams, bring a couple of draws for the the bolts.
You can top rope this with a 60m if you have the climber traverse the little ledges at the base. Make sure you tie a knot in the rope on the belayer side. Because, you will run out of rope when lowering. It would be a shame to let the rope slip through your belay device, dropping your partner below the ledges then tumble 300 feet to the base of red slab.
Great route. protects really well with nuts. Two bomber blots on the way up. Double anchor at the top, each with double rings.
If you have a 60M rope the best way to do it is to climb up to the landing directly below the Main Crack. The lead climber will have to climb about 15 feet up and about 10 feet to the right to the first bolt. But to the first bolt isn't too bad. (This will also save you from climbing through vegetation) Also do a figure 8 in the end of your rope, you have just enough to come back down, but with no rope to spare.Also belayer be careful (especially with climbers heavier then you) - with the first bolt being at an angle the rope will pull you towards it. The landing is at an angle as well so if the climber falls or is being lowered you may be pulled down. I recommend you anchor yourself to the rocks on the other side of the landing, you won't regret it.
Yeah, I'm one of those guys that gives it two stars. I just wasn't too impressed with the route.
Crisco said: "As good as trad gets in R.C." I disagree. I think that routes like Main Crack, Green Monster, and even the routes on the north side of Bolt Slab are better than this. I dunno... It's been a few years, maybe I should go do it again...
By Adam Wilson From: Provo, UT Oct 27, 2008 rating: 5.7
Christian told me for years that this is the best route in rock canyon. I didn't believe him. He was wrong. This is one of the best 5.7's anywhere.