This thin crack to the left of the main Green Monster crack provides a pumpy feast of balance, technique, face moves, and jamming. The climbing goes with tricky moves for five to ten feet followed by a good resting spot where you can set your protection.
Protection
Full set of nuts and some small cams. Double chain anchors at top.
Location
Approach via the main Rock Canyon trail and then follow the trail on the right just before you reach The Kitchen. Go past the Bolt Slab (on your left) and scramble up the Class 4 approach to the base of the Green Monster Slab.
There are two bolt anchors here that help to protect the belayer until you get your first few pieces in. However, the Aid Crack route starts about 10 feet down from these anchors and so you will need to belay high up, extend the anchors, or forgo their use.
If setting up as a top rope continue up the scree gully past Tinker Toys and scramble across the ledges to the top of the Green Monster Slab. It might be safer to use the main crack anchors instead of the Aid Crack ones, but you will pendulum out to the right if you pop off. If top roping please put draws on the chains in order to prevent destructive wear.
This is .10a if you're tall. he he... Its rare to find a finger crack of this grade this close to vertical in the wasatch. A true gem on perfect stone. Lots of medium to small cams.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Nov 23, 2007 rating: 5.10b
Ten:
You don't even have to be tall. You just have to know how to use your feet for the long reaches. I couldn't feel my fingers, so I have no idea how the crimps really were, but on TR, you can trust anything!
Fun route, I'll wait for better temps before I lead this.
Green Monster Slab
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