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Black Rose
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A Rose is a Rose 

5.10

   

FA: Unknown
Type: Trad, TR
Consensus: 5.10- [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 344 page views

Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Oct 10, 2005


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BETA PHOTO: Black Rose 5.10d
A Rose is a Rose 5.10a
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Description 

The main detached slab on the left of the Black Rose area. The slab is directly to the south of the main trail as you encounter the first rock formations about 10 minutes walk from the parking area.

From the first time you notice this slab, and how could you miss it, you will want to climb it. It is often climbed as a top rope.

The route starts on the right side of the slab just to the left of the arete. Climb up the face using the arete and then follow the diagonal crack across the face of the rock.

On lead this route will get your heart pumping. The protection is good, but very hard to see and difficult to place because you will be pulling up and to the right of the left/down facing crack. Good footwork is essential in order to keep opposition with your layback.


Protection 

Small and medium nuts and a couple .5-1 inch cams, 1 bolt. Double chain anchors at the top. The last links on the chains are very thin. As is common practice on all top ropes, please use draws when top roping this route instead of threading directly through the chains.



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By Joey Faust
From: Lindon, UT
Feb 1, 2006
rating: 5.10a

New rapid links replaced worn links

By criscokid
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008

The crux is over fast and well protected. This was one of the more popular routes back in the "Trad day" times (what ever happened to that DK?). The difficulty eases quite a bit after the crux and so it doesn't feel really all that bad to run it out.