The right line on the right set of anchors. 6 bolts that will pull at your tendons. Very fun route, very pumpy. Length wasn't too bad, but what hurt this route is that you can use the right wall, in fact, it is a pain in the a$$ to not use that right wall, but that right wall hurts (lessens) the climb. The finish is also weird, with a very painful (sliced into my finger, painful) crack hold at the 6th bolt.
I wasn't too clear. What I was trying to say, was that it is hard to not use that wall during the beginning sequence. The angles force you to the right and it is actually more difficult to try to keep off of that wall, than it is to climb it. When I look at a cliff, I climb it with what I have at my disposal. It is not "natural" to say, "Don't use that wall, don't stem, or ignore every third handhold." Here is the cliff climb it. I understand that Darren's "line" is to not use it, but it just isn't natural.
By EricAllen From: Utah / Nevada Feb 9, 2006 rating: 5.11b
The Bulge is a great route. Short, powerful, well-protected, and fun. To each his own I guess.
Eric
By kip henrie From: centerville, utah Nov 27, 2007 rating: 5.11c/d
hardest 11b i've ever done. i got it gasping at the top with streaming beta from my partner. man this thing is technical and requires some wide moves. the top 3 bolts is all the business. absolute must do. using the right wall for stemming is definitely off.
The Appendage
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