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The Appendage
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The Edge 

5.9

   

FA: Knezek
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 50 feet
Views: 255 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Sep 17, 2005


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You and this route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Description 

This is the right line on the left set of anchors. Fun jams and good positions will get you to the present first bolt, which will clip with some muscle. Swing out onto the west face and clip the last bolt and head for the chains.

Again, too short for more than 1 star but better than Lead.


Protection 

4 bolts plus the chains.



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By Tristan Higbee
From: Provo, Utah
Mar 25, 2008

I agree that this climb is better than Lead. Some big, fun moves.

By criscokid
From: PG, Utah
May 21, 2008

Good first sport lead for someone...

By Lee Jensen
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.7

Having led this route several times now I have a hard time understanding the 5.9 rating. Either it is contrived (only climb to the left on the face) or it is way overrated. If you use the holds on the right and then transition over to the left for the last bolt around the arete the route is super easy and you are never more than an arms reach from a bolt. I would suggest 5.7. Am I missing something here?

By Darren Knezek
Aug 5, 2008
rating: 5.7

It was originally rated 5.9, but a huge bulge feature you had to pull over became loose. I went up with a crowbar and now that feature is on the ground. The route became considerably easier and in the new RC guidebook will be 5.7.