Brian on Regular Route, P.A.'s Mother, Rock Canyon...
Description
This route is a large off width crack. It is easy to get to any is a great climb. It's the perfect length as a warm-up route for the day. If you have the right cams protection is easy and the climbing is good.
Protection
Use cams between 2.5 and 4. Also placed a hex. There is a double-bolt anchor at the top and a good ledge to belay from.
There is only one bloted chain at the top of this route. While it seems fairly solid it does look like it has been through quite a few seasons of weather and use. The crack is wide, but not off width. 2 - 4" pieces protect it well.
By Chuck From: Fairbanks, AK Apr 24, 2006 rating: 5.7
To top rope this one, It's a little skechy getting to the anchor. You may want to do a short rappel down. Bring webbing to extend anchor over the lip. You can back the anchor up with a 10' piece of webing around a large horn at the top.
The anchor bolts have been replaced with chains. They are up about three feet higher then the previous "set". This makes for a really clean anchor since the rope no longer drags into the crack.
I placed Camalots 4, 3, 2, and 1, with a couple of ~3/4 inch pieces down low.