Leading the mantle, about half way up. Most of the...
Description
This route is about in the middle of the slab just right of Mr. Cornflakes. At the base of the route is a large block (about 2.5 feet tall). You can use this to distinguish it from the many other bolted routes on the slab.
The crux comes in the middle of the route where you clip a bolt from an easy stance and then try to move up with little to no hands.
Protection
Eight bolts. Double bolt anchor with chains at the top.
Very tricky crux. The last bolt is a good twenty feet from the chains, but it's a pretty easy climb up, but still best to be careful. Fun climb. The crux can be a little frustrating.
By Adam Wilson From: Provo, UT Nov 29, 2008 rating: 5.8
It's nice to be excited on 5.8. And by excited I mean gripped out of my mind. Protection is plenty adequate, but low percentage move of the kind you just have to love on the most polished of polished quartzite... I love this route.
This was the first route I led after moving to Utah. I had been climbing for a number of years in So. Cal. The crux really took some thought and reminded me of some of the slab routes on granite.