I'll probably roast for giving a clip-up like this three stars, but I'll never forget getting on it in 1985 or 1986 for the first time and loving it. For whatever reason, we had decided that this was the day to try and find out what the big boys were doing. But how to do that without getting totally waxed by the route? Grapevine beta and a hand-drawn xerox were the ticket to the world's safest bolt ladder, and we had no end of praise for the guys who had stitched it up.
Laboratory safe 5.12 climbing on crisp edges awaits the timid and faint of heart. A burn through Meadow Muffin a few years ago suggested that most of the climbing was actually middle 5.11, perhaps cruxy down low, but highly continuous.
If you are busting into 5.12, I can't imagine a better clip-up to do it on. What a gas!
Protection
Bring at least seventeen or eigthteen draws and a rope.
Location
Meadow Muffin is on the west face of the Bolt Slab.
Many of the bolts on this route are old and manky. Most look like homemade hangers. There are also a couple bolt heads sticking a quarter inch out of the rock without any hangers at all. However, the chain anchors at the top are solid.
This is a great route to practice aid climbing up a bolt ladder. Even if you are really tall you will need to place a couple pieces to get past some spots.
It is really easy to set up a top rope on this route. Scramble to the base then climb the 5.3 crack on the right for a couple moves.
Bolt Slab
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