Mountain Project: Climbing Wasatch Range

Submitted By: Lee Jensen on Jun 17, 2005
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard
Latitude: 40.2652 Longitude: -111.6237
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Description

Black Rose offers a handful of short, challenging routes up sheer faces of beautiful, smooth quartzite. It also has the nice distinction of being the easiest rock to reach in the canyon.

Because all of the bolted routes are 5.10 or higher it never attracts the crowds that frequently flock to Red Slab or The Kitchen.

Getting There

Start from the Rock Canyon parking lot. You can see Red Slab on the south side of the canyon from the parking lot. Black Rose is located right off from the trail, just to the left side and below Red Slab.

Walk upcanyon along the paved trail (take the right path for the easiest approach). After about a ten minute walk you will see a jumble of broken rocks and a trail that leads up to Red Slab. Black Rose is the tall, blank faces directly off from the trail to the east of the broken rocks.

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Black Rose:

Dynamite Crack 5.6 Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Pink Canoe 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet

A Rose is a Rose 5.10 Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Black Rose 5.10d Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55 feet

Black Magic Woman 5.11b Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 50 feet

Fat Hippos 5.12a Sport, 40 feet

Featured Route For Black Rose

Brett Anderson belayed by Christian Burrell on Black Magic Woman.

Black Magic Woman 5.11b UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Black Rose

A fantastic climb with perfect rock, a short approach, and awesome moves. Start at the base of the arete and climb past a couple bolts. The business starts after the second bolt. Get your feet up high, grab the big undercling/sidepull jug with your left hand and pinch an undercling a couple inches above that with your right hand. Hold it all tight while reaching up to a lousy pinch on the arete with your left hand. Re-adjust your feet and lunge f...[more] Browse More Classics in UT

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By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jun 8, 2007

In 2003 the landowner started excavating for landscaping rock. (Most of the quartzite areas in Rock Canyon are on private property.) Legal action, and the purchase of an interest in the property arranged by the city of Provo and local philanthropists stopped the excavation, at least for now.

See here for a photo of the Black Rose area before the damage caused by the excavation.

By John Ross
From: Spanish Fork, UT
Nov 28, 2007

Here is one article about this:

Deal may save canyon face
Excavations pose a threat to Provo's Rock Canyon
Wednesday, August 4, 2004

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Nov 28, 2007

There is a forum thread with links to articles here.

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