Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Elevation: 5,404 ft 1,647 m
GPS: 40.2655, -111.621
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 969,938 total · 3,563/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jul 24, 2003 · Updates
Admins: Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher

Description Suggest change

Rock Canyon is one of my favorite climbing areas when visiting Salt Lake. It is pretty well developed now and hosts a slew of bolted and trad lines.

Overall, the climbing is significantly easier than that at American Fork Canyon. Rock Canyon holds numerous bolted routes in the 5.5 to 5.13 range and trad from 5.6 to 5.12 with the balance easier than 5.10.

There are routes sprinkled around on both sides of the canyon so it possible to chase the shade or the sun, as need demands. All of the parking is at the mouth of the canyon, so be prepared to hump.

One day, several years ago, we hiked the canyon from the mouth to the top of the plateau and it was really a gas, and did not detract from the climbing at all. It is easy to find yourself the only team at a crag, and while the vista does not come close to rivaling American Fork, the isolation can be satisfying. There is climbing adjacent to the parking, and one can take a leisurely approach just moving up canyon during the rest periods.

The rock is divided primarily between yellow and reddish quartzite closer to the mouth of the canyon, and gray limestone farther up canyon. See here for more information on the canyon's geology.

Best trip: bring a pair of ropes, a dozen draws, the trad rack, your significant other, and hiking shoes.

Local Beta Suggest change

Mountainworks

is the local climbing shop.

The Mountainworks crew have put up many of the routes in the local area, and Mountainworks is therefore the place to go for route recommendations and beta beyond that which appears here.

Getting There

Suggest change
Rock Canyon

is quite a long way south of Salt Lake City and is just east of Provo.

From the north (Salt Lake City) drive south on I-15 and exit at 800 N in Orem (exit 272). Drive east until 800 N ends; take the exit right onto University Avenue. Continue south on University Avenue until 2230 N (the 7th light signal). Turn left and drive east through a residential neighborhood until the road starts to curve right (south). Turn left on N. Temple Drive (the Mormon Temple is visible just before you turn). Continue east on N. Temple through a 4-way stop sign. As the road curves to the south (right) the Rock Canyon parking will be directly ahead.

From the south exit from I-15 at University Avenue in Provo (exit 263). Continue north on University Avenue until 2230 N (the first light signal after passing BYU's football stadium on your right). Turn right and follow the rest of the directions, above.

505 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Rock Canyon Change
Type:  to 
Quality:
Pitches:
Sort by:   then:
 

Classic Climbing Routes at Rock Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 198
Main Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 124
Flakes
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 285
Green Monster
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 110
Jawa Jam
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 108
Call it a Knight
Sport, TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 67
Leia's Leash
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 76
Triumphal Arch
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 48
Green Monster Aid Crack
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 76
Necrobeastiality
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 131
Simple Simon
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 264
Kyhv Peak | 7735
Sport 22 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 30
Learning to Fly
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 48
Blood Ruby
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
The Higher, Harder One
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 40
Ferocious
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Main Crack Ed & Terry Wall
 198
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Flakes Ed & Terry Wall
 124
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Green Monster Green Monster Slab
 285
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Jawa Jam Galaxy Area > Tatooine
 110
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Call it a Knight Ed & Terry Wall
 108
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport, TR
Leia's Leash Galaxy Area > Tatooine
 67
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Triumphal Arch Galaxy Area > Tatooine
 76
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Green Monster Aid Crack Green Monster Slab
 48
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, TR
Necrobeastiality Bug Barn Dance Wall
 76
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Simple Simon Super Bowl Wall
 131
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Kyhv Peak | 7735 Kyhv Peak
 264
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 22 pitches
Learning to Fly Balcony
 30
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Blood Ruby Treasure Island
 48
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
The Higher, Harder One Super Bowl Wall
 44
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ferocious Adjective
 40
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Rock Canyon »

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D

Photos

loading