Rock Canyon is one of my favorite climbing areas when visiting Salt Lake. It is pretty well developed now and hosts a slew of bolted and trad lines.
Overall, the climbing is significantly easier than that at American Fork Canyon. Rock Canyon holds numerous bolted routes in the 5.5 to 5.13 range and trad from 5.6 to 5.12 with the balance easier than 5.10.
There are routes sprinkled around on both sides of the canyon so it possible to chase the shade or the sun, as need demands. All of the parking is at the mouth of the canyon, so be prepared to hump.
One day, several years ago, we hiked the canyon from the mouth to the top of the plateau and it was really a gas, and did not detract from the climbing at all. It is easy to find yourself the only team at a crag, and while the vista does not come close to rivaling American Fork, the isolation can be satisfying. There is climbing adjacent to the parking, and one can take a leisurely approach just moving up canyon during the rest periods.
The rock is divided primarily between yellow and reddish quartzite closer to the mouth of the canyon, and gray limestone farther up canyon. See here for more information on the canyon's geology.
Best trip: bring a pair of ropes, a dozen draws, the trad rack, a bottle of wine, your significant other, and hiking shoes.
Getting There
Rock Canyon is quite a long way south of Salt Lake City and is just east of Provo.
From the north (Salt Lake City) drive south on I-15 and exit at 800 N in Orem (exit 272). Drive east until 800 N ends; take the exit right onto University Avenue. Continue south on University Avenue until 2230 N (the 7th light signal). Turn left and drive east through a residential neighborhood until the road starts to curve right (south). Turn left on N. Temple Drive (the Mormon Temple is visible just before you turn). Continue east on N. Temple through a 4-way stop sign. As the road curves to the south (right) the Rock Canyon parking will be directly ahead.
From the south exit from I-15 at University Avenue in Provo (exit 263). Continue north on University Avenue until 2230 N (the first light signal after passing BYU's football stadium on your right). Turn right and follow the rest of the directions, above.
A fantastic climb with perfect rock, a short approach, and awesome moves. Start at the base of the arete and climb past a couple bolts. The business starts after the second bolt. Get your feet up high, grab the big undercling/sidepull jug with your left hand and pinch an undercling a couple inches above that with your right hand. Hold it all tight while reaching up to a lousy pinch on the arete with your left hand. Re-adjust your feet and lunge f...[more]
By John J. Glime From: Salt Lake City, UT Sep 25, 2004
Ruckman's guide, etc. shows that you can drive up the canyon. No more. There is now a parking area with bathrooms and a gate 10 minutes from the mouth of the canyon.
Easy driving directions: Once on North Temple Drive head east past the Provo LDS Temple. Once past the Temple keep it to your back and Rock Canyon to your front and you will drive right into the parking lot.
Rock Canyon
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