the approach may take longer than the climb itself... approximately 1500 feet east of lost creek canyon, in the SW facing drainage just west of Shower tower.
Location
On the north side of the canyon, east of lost creek, the drainage runs SW, so receives sun in the afternoon. Rap the route
I climbed this route for the first time Yesterday. The climb is worth the long approach, but make sure you start early because it gets hit by the sun for several hours during the day. As of Yesterday (Sunday, december 27, 2009), the first pitch was rather small with pockets of air and sections of hollow layers. Given the difficulties involved in protecting the route, I will give it a 5-5+ grade, but that could change rapidly during the day). The second pitch is steep but short, a bit pumpy but easily protectable with a couple of screws. The exit to the second pitch presents some thin ice and scrambling on exposed rock and requires care. We left some webbing and a stainless ring around a tree to rappel from. Two 60 meter ropes will just take you to the bottom of the first pitch. A worthy adventure in a beautiful place. I bet this route doesn't get climbed very often.
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