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Iron Curtain Wall
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Up In a Flash 

One With the Rock 

5.11c

   

FA: Smoot
Type: Sport, TR
Consensus: 5.11c [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 80 feet
Views: 198 page views

Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: One With The Rock


Description 

This is the westmost line on the cliff. It almost deserves 4 stars, and I might change my mind yet. It is a very good route. It start with an easy first bolt (probably the easiest 1st bolt on the wall). Then it gets hard, forcing you to smear and edge very tenuous holds. Hands aren't much help but they are key. Maybe that didn't make sense. A key hand-hold is there to move through the crux; however, the hands don't mark your success through most of this lower section, but good footwork does. After the 3rd bolt, the climbing eases up and hands are good again. The Ruckman's book shows a 5.10a mini-crux at the last bolt, but I never even noticed it. In fact, my belayer mentioned that it seemed like I was on a 5.8 by my speed on the upper section.


Protection 

7 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. It shares anchors with Out of Touch if you want to top-rope.



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By Paul Stoner
From: Park City, UT
Jul 11, 2005

Do yourself a favor and rappel off of these anchors, a 60 m rope will work

By triznuty
From: Murray, UT
Sep 12, 2006
rating: 5.11c

What a fun yet touchy route. This one will test your slabbin skills. The key here is to keep your balance and cool. Have a good belayer on this, because the falls can be awkward through the crux. The upper half is fun with .10ish moves before the top.