Astroprojection 

FA:  Smoot Type:  Trad, Sport, TR Consensus:  5.11d [details] Length:  1 pitch, 80 feet Views: 589 page views Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jul 3, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Setting up a top rope. We used directionals for A...

Description 

The eastern most bolted line, Astroprojection is an edging dream or nightmare depending on your ability. It starts a little slabby, but beyond that there is nothing easy about it. Getting to the overhang is thin and tough on the fingers. Popping the overhang is a decision making process. Do you utilize the right or left crack, layback or jam? Once the roof is cleared, the climbing gets harder (imagine that). Stay off that left arete (no really!!), and edge it on up. There are beautiful edges and long reachy hands that tire the fingers. Look for a hidden (Bomber) pocket that appears out of nowhere, near the top. As the Ruckman's say, this is the testpiece of the Parley's climbs, master this and you are the King of Parleys. Bolt 1 or 2 seemed like the hanger was bent.

Protection 

6 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. These anchors can be used for the climbs Dirty Rotten Horror, Edge of the Sea, and Riptide, so a top-rope can be set this way. Also some small to medium gear might be prudent.