The 3rd from the west line of bolts. Another thin beginning. This route starts thin and then once you have attained the ledge by hook or crook or mantle in my case, you have to find a way to clip that piton before going any further. The clip is reachy. I am just over 6 foot tall, and by using the 2 small ledges above the main ledge and left of the piton, standing on my tiptoes, and holding the biner to clip at the base of it and in the furthest tips of my fingers and levitating just a bit, I was able to clip it. The thin moves continue past the piton and the blank face, until you get to the more juggy but not neccesarily easier upper face. At "bolt" 3, you can work right of bolt 4 to keep it at the stated 5.10a rating, or veer left for a more difficult 5.10d rating. I only did the right version. Continue up to your anchors.
Protection
7 draws for the climb and 2 more for the anchors. I also backed up the last piton with my trusty .75 camalot.
I wrote this review with shredded fingertips, courtesy of Iron Curtain, the testpiece (and namesake) of this wall. The start is no picnic, with very thin hands and feet gaining a decent ledge. You then have to mantle the ledge with virtually no good handholds above. More crimpy holds eventually get you to bolt 3, after which the route eases up. The top half of the climb has good handholds and goes quickly. Don't leave the crag without giving this route a go.
Probably the funnest route on the wall. Mantle that ledge! Next comes a very difficult clip to a piton. You would have to be 6'3 to clip this thing from the ledge with out a problem. I am 6'1 and, same as Nathan, I had to tiptoe on two slightly higher edges to just barely clip the sucker. The prob here is, if you fall you will likely deck! So... if you are a shortie and don't feel like breaking yr legs on a sport route, you could easily do the route to the left (they share anchors) and clip it with a long draw on yr way down. Other than the sketchy clip, the route is great. The 10.d left variation makes it even better!
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jul 4, 2006 rating: 5.10c
I tried the 5.10d variation on the left, and I thought that it was easier than the beginning; nevertheless, it was fun. The features through the variation are really different from other climbs on the wall. I agree with Mr. Pierce--the second clip is incredibly sketchy. I was so glad that I was on TR--I must have slipped four times trying to get past the second clip.
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Sep 12, 2006 rating: 5.10a PG13
Classic climb and arguably the best on the wall, with options to finish depending on how tough you are... ; ) This has a serious fall potential if you blow getting to the piton.
Agreed. Many thanks to the Smootster. We're headed for the Iron Curtain today!
By S. Gileadi From: Salt Lake City Jun 17, 2007 rating: 5.10a
I think it really is the funnest route on the wall. Loved mantling that ledge! Thin, can be a little sharp in places, and more sustained than most of the routes on the wall. Give it a go!
Deceptively difficult -- Two very thin parts, between the first bolt and ledge and after the ledge past the second bolt. Felt more like .10d to me here...
Iron Curtain Wall
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