The 4th line of bolts from the right. This touchy climb starts right at a tree, and just off of a left trending weakness. Utilizing sidepulls on this weakness and thin moves towards the bolt will get it clipped. Have a good a spotter (I had 2 and needed both of them) because the 1st clip is tough. The climbing stays tough until you reach the ledge. It then eases up to an almost ridiculous 5.6 level. I was tempted to give it 1 star for this easy section, but the bottom is great and the 5.6 climbing is still fun. The anchors are shared with Iron Curtain.
By Ryan Brough From: Arvada, Colorado Jul 4, 2006 rating: 5.10c
I felt like the climbing to the first bolt was 5.8; however, getting the second clip is sketchy. The climbing is consistently difficult from the first bolt until the fourth bolt, the crux (for me) was around the third bolt. I think that if I were a foot taller, this route would have been 5.9. As with a lot of other routes on this wall, most of the bolts are spinners. This route was a fun challenge, and I hope to redpoint it next time.
Whoever put a rap biner on the 1st bolt should have refrained from doing so, or put it on the 2nd bolt where it's useful! I can reach the 1st bolt with my elbow, I'm 4" away from the second regardless of where my feet are. Go figure... 3 cruxes on this route: get to the ledge, mantel the ledge (no hands), clip the 3rd bolt (long move, small crimps, no feet). Bring strong tendons.
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Sep 12, 2006 rating: 5.10c PG13
I agree, the rap biner is very unnecessary. There is no need to alter this route, except MAYBE to replace the spinners. This is one of my favorites routes at the crag. A classic for sure. I'm giving it a PG-13--because there are a couple spots before the third bolt, that if you fall you could get hurt. Have a good belay on this one.
By Ryan Peterson From: North Salt Lake, Utah Jun 2, 2007
Most bolts up higher are spinners. Bring a crash pad for the first two bolts, getting that second bolt was the hardest part I thought.
Really fun climb on this wall -- my favorite of the bunch. First couple of clips are easier with a long wingspan, or good balance: I could reach it with no hands. Fun facey climbing with some bail-out ledges with great balancey mantles -- Classic!
Iron Curtain Wall
RSS Feed
