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Motley Cruise 

5.9

   

FA: Jonathan and Brian Smoot
Type: Sport
Consensus: 5.9 [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 60 feet
Views: 225 page views

Submitted By: Andrew Gram on Apr 4, 2004


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BETA PHOTO: 3 - Mutation, 4 - Motley Cruise


Description 

This route is just right of the dirty route right of the steep chossy gully. There is a fixed pin hidden in the horizontal.

Climb up nice thin dishes and edges, moving left near the top to reach the anchors atop Mutation. Very clean, good moves, and well bolted.


Protection 

Quickdraws



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By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Apr 7, 2004
rating: 5.9

Five quickdraws plus 2 for the top

By Nathan Fisher
Administrator
Jul 2, 2004
rating: 5.9

The hidden piton can be backed up with a .75 camalot no problem.

By Lee Gitlin
Jul 3, 2004
rating: 5.9

Yet another in a list of "friction" face climbs at Parleys. You will need to trust your feet on the unlimited footholds. If things seem desperate, just bump up a few baby steps and an acceptable handhold will appear, as if by magic. Stretching on tiptoes to reach for handholds is a recipe for blowing your feet. As my climbing partner reminded me, "nose over toes," is an appropriate axiom here. Motley Cruise is an interesting, meandering route that rates one star, if only for its nifty hand traverse. A short, enjoyable route.

By icsteveoh
From: salt lake city, UT
Aug 14, 2006

this climb scared me near the top buldge. Granted I was a beginning climber at the time but I ended up in that chimney and traversing over to the anchors. Not my favorite situation.

By Ryan Peterson
From: Logan, Utah
Jun 2, 2007
rating: 5.8+

The route feels like you should go over to the right and walk up to the bolts at the top, but then you find two bomber hidden little holds and the anchors are no problem.

Like they said, just smear up a few inches at a time if you're stuck, it'll come.