Mason Bates (Belayer)... Watch out for the massive...
Description
This route climbs a dirty looking face just right of a steep chossy gully. Climb easily up to the high first bolt, and then up through a few more bolts to two rap bolts. Better than it looks, and a bit harder if you avoid the side of the gully on the left.
Do not toprope directly through the rap hangers! Set up a TR through your own biners.
Bring your best smearing mojo, because a jug haul this is not. My climbing partners and I debated whether the arete was "on." In any case, it makes for a bomber clipping hold on the second bolt. Also, the Parley's area can seem like an EZ-Bake oven in the summer, so climb early to avoid getting scorched, and bring twice as much water as you think you need.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 2, 2004 rating: 5.9
Ok. I was wrong. I climbed this again, and whereas 4 bolts are on the route, and the 2 hangers for the anchor--makes 6 draws, bring 1 extra for the last bolt on Motley Cruise, since it is reachable and prudent to clip this last bolt. So to make a long story short, bring 7 draws.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jul 2, 2004 rating: 5.9
Gear Alert
One last comment for now: Bolts 1,2, & 3 are spinners.
By Spinalflow From: Salt Lake City , Utah Sep 15, 2007 rating: 5.9
I would mumble this is more like a 5.9+ if you don't use the arete. With the use of the arete I would say 5.8
Iron Curtain Wall
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