This route is pretty exciting for a roadside 5.8 sport climb. Get to the upper ledge by either climbing one of the lower pitches or hiking up and around. Walk out on the ledge and have your belayer anchor in at the bolts. Traverse out to the right all the way to the arete. DO NOT knock any rocks off or you could have a serious lawsuit on your hands. At this point you will have quite the view, and the cars racing by directly under you make it a little intimidating. Climb the arete past four bolts, then run it out to the anchors or bring a few small/medium pieces to protect the easy top section.
Location
Starts on the upper ledge next to "If the Fall Doesn't Kill You, a Car Will." A single rap lands you right back at the belay.
Protection
Four bolts and optional gear for the last 20 feet. The climbing after the last bolt is only about 5.5 so you may not want to bother with gear.
This was a really good climb. Being on the arete was pretty fun! The most intimidating part of the climb is trying not to knock anything off on to the cars below.
By jeffozozo From: huntsville, utah Nov 5, 2009 rating: 5.8
This is a GREAT climb, if not a bit short. Stay right on the arete if you can, which has some good holds. The face has some places where the holds are quite sparse. The crux is between the 3rd and 4th bolts.
I recommend clipping the first bolt of the face climb to belay the leader as they traverse across the face, out to the arete. You can unclip that bolt once the leader gets to the second bolt on the arete, to minimize rope friction.
There is a great photo spot from just above the belay, where the evening sun illuminates the 'peery camp' wall across the canyon for this climb.
RSS Feed
