Ogden Canyon, and almost the entire Ogden Area, is comprised mainly of quartzite with a few climbable areas on limestone. For the most part, climbing in OC consists mainly of slabby and just short of vertical rock. Climbs here are pretty short; most climbs range between 30 and 85 feet in height. The canyon is home to both trad and sport climbing - 5.3 to 5.13 - but don't get your hopes up, there are very few routes in the canyon. Many climbs, in all of Ogden, are obscure and difficult to locate. Climbs here, historically speaking, were never recorded and information about a route, until recently, has been passed on orally from climber to climber.
There were a couple of quidebooks that had been printed a long time ago, but Dave Robb, through Sharpend Publishing, has published a new guide as of late 2005. His new guidebook is called Ogden Area Climbing Guide: From Brigham City to Echo Canyon. Check it out!
Getting There
Ogden Canyon is easily accessable off of I-15. From I-15, just take the 12th street exit 342 and follow 12th street, east, until you arrive in the canyon. The majority of the routes are located in the first mile up the canyon (headed east).
IN OGDEN THERE ARE FIVE GREAT AREAS TO CLIMB, 3 OUTSIDE, AND 2 INDOORS.
FOR TRAD, AND SPORT THERE IS OGDEN CANYON, BUT UNLESS YOU HAVE SOMEONE SHOW YOU IT CAN BE RATHER HARD TO FIND THE ROUTES.
FOR PURE SPORT THERE IS NINTH STREET. IF YOU GET OFF I-15 AT 12TH ST IN OGDEN GO EAST TO HARRISON BLVD. AT THE NEXT RIGHT (9TH ST. SOUTH) FOLLOW TILL THE END OF THE ROAD AND PARK (PLEASE OBSERVE THE NOT SO OBVIOUS DON'T PARK SPRAY PAINTINGS ON THE FENCES) THERE IS A GATE, STANDING FROM THE GATE LOOKING AT THE MOUNTAINS THERE IS A ROAD GOING UP, AND A SUBTLE TRAIL TO THE LEFT. THE CRAG IS TO YOUR UPPER LEFT, AND CAN BE RATHER CROWDED DURING THE SUMMER. IF NOONE IS THERE, TRY TO GO TO THE MOST OBVIOUS CHUNK OF ROCK ON THE LEFT SIDE. IT IS ABOUT A 5-10 MINUTE, RIGOROUS HIKE. NINTH STREET IS NOT VERY BIG, BUT HAS SOME RATHER TOUGH ROUTES. THE FIRST ROUTE YOU GET TOO ON THE VERY LEFT SIDE OF THE ROUTE IS 5-9, TO THE RIGHT OF THOSE CHAINS IS A SET OF BOLTS FOR TOPROPING 5.6THE NEXT BOLT LINE TO THE RIGHT, ABOUT 20 FEET, IS MIDNIGHT COWBOY, A 5.10 D THAT IS RATHER TRICKY, AND SLIGHTLY OVERHUNG AT THE TOP. THE NEXT FULL SET OF BOLTS IS RATED 5.10D/5.11A (I THINK) ABOUT 3 FEET OVER FROM THERE IS JERUSELEM 5.11 B/C-ISH IT STARTS AT THE OVER HANG AND GOES STRAIGHT UP. I DO NOT KNOW THE REST OF THE ROUTES.
AT THE TOP OF 27TH STREET SOUTH YOU CAN EASILY WALK TO A BOULDER FIELD, THERE ARE QUITE A FEW BOULDER'S UP THERE, BUT PLAYING AROUND IS REALLY FUN. ON THE SIDE OF THE MOUNTAIN ABOVE THE BOULDER FIELD IS THE SCHOOL ROOM WALL WITH BOTH TRAD AND SPORT, BUT I HAVE NEVER BEEN THERE, DUE TO THE 45 MINUTE HIKE UP A SCREE SECTION.
BEN LOMOND CLIMBING GYM IS ON 89 IN NORTH OGDEN, AND THERE ARE SOME REALLY COOL GUYS THAT WORK THERE.
PROPULSION IS ON RIVERDALE ROAD NEXT TO WILLY'S CAR DEALERSHIP. THERE IS PRETTY MUCH JUST BOULDERING, BUT IT IS REALLY FUN (SIMILAR TO THE FRONT IN SALT LAKE, BUT NOT AS PRETTY). IF YOU ARE NOT MORMON, OR CAN'T CLIMB V6 DON'T EXPECT TOO MAKE A WHOLE LOT OF FRIENDS THERE.
The front is much better than Propulsion, but more expensive and farther to drive, but if you have the money and time then it is way better. The guys at propulsion are assholes!
Me and my friend went bouldering on 26th street in Ogden. IT was really good rock with stuff for everyone to climb. It looked like a lot of people had climbed there already so there were routes marked with chalk and on rockclimbing.com there were people that had put up routes that were V0 to V2 so not too hard but hey, it works.LaterAndrew
Hey the hike up to the school yard wall above 26th street IS about 45 muinutes but only about 5 muinutes are scree. The first of the hike is up a trail section folowed by a really enjoyable hike up a boulder field (not as small as scree but not as big as a the average boulder problem.) From the road this section looks like the worst hike imaginable but it is quite fun. The following section is the scree(I dont even think that section is five muinutes but I will say it just to be safe.
once you are up the hike you come to a coule of easy climbs that go up a small section of rock. Once you are up there is a ledge that is between 10-5 feet wide, this ledge runs for a long way it is loaded with climbs. The ratings go up to 5.12 or 13 and as low as 9 or 10. A topo is advised because some of the climbs are only protected half way up. All climbs have ancors at the top but some have bolts as far as you can see so you start climbing and suddenly there are none.
If you go to canyon sports in ogden they can make acopy of the climbs for you. Go check it out!
Propulsion is now The Wall. The routesetters are the same, but the owners are different. I've been here maybe ten times and have had a great experience with the climbing and the staff. The employees are friendly and helpful. Don't let the previous comments stop you from going, it's a fantastic bouldering gym.
I never went to the climbing gym in riverdale when it was Propulsion, so I can't confirm whether or not the guys running it were jerks. It's not Propulsion anymore now, it's called The Wall, and I've never come across anyone who wasn't completely cool, easy-going and fun to climb with. The new owner is a great guy and I absolutely love this gym. The route setting is superb and a lot of the holds are made in-house, making for a unique experience. If anybody was turned off by previous management, go check it out again and stop ragging on the place.
Anybody know of any guide books for 26th street bouldering?
There is a guide called bouldering utah that has info about the bouders in this area i think they range from vo to about a v9 or maybe higher you can pick it up at REI or BD has a pic or a guy bouldering red rock in moab on the cover.
There are more then 100 routes in the canyon. I am working to get some of them posted. Let me know if you want me to work on any specific areas. Thanks, Robert
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