This route is a good adventure route. There are no particular sections of brilliant climbing, however the route in its entirety is good. Know how to climb chimneys, and you'll send easily. There isn't a need to lug any big cams up there, as there are gear possibilities everywhere.Iv'e heard this route is good in March, as a consolidated snow climb.You can rap the route via multiple sections of bomber stainless steel anchors. Thanks goes out to whomever drilled those bolts!
-tda
Protection
Bring a small free rack, and long slings.Only on rope is needed to rappel the routeMake sure to bring small to medium nuts, there are tons of spots for stoppers.
Whomever has cut out the approach trail: THANK YOU!!! We soloed the first pitch without realizing it. We didn't realize this until we reached a bolted rap anchor (dangerous "American triangle"). We had heard that you can rap the whole route with one rope, but the first two pitches either don't have enough rap anchors, or we missed them. As for the route itself, the pitches actually are not really long as the guidebook describes. The climbing isn't difficult and not really classic. Pro is pretty good. The third pitch was probably the best. The fourth (last) had lots of loose looking blocks so we climbed a wide crack over a small roof to the left of the main line (This variation was really fun). Send me an email if you want any beta.
North Summit
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