Crux onsighted....it's almost Miller time! Photo ...
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The crux of Triple O's is my favorite pitch in the Wasatch. Tremendous exposure, spectacular rock, bomber gear. While the 1st and 2nd pitches are not as memorable, the crux is all I needed to put this one in my top 3 all time. You can, however, start and finish on Vertical Smile, for a supposedly more consistent, and challenging variation. If Beckey did it first in 1962, you know it's good.
After almost a decade since my first ascent, I finally repeated Triple Overhangs on 7/16/05.To edit my previous remarks above, the 2nd pitch was actually alot of fun! Gear: leave the #4 Camalot at home....1 #3 is as big as you need!I coulda used a couple more large stoppers/small hexes.Adding a 3rd #2 camalot for the 2nd and 4th pitches would have been nice, but the runouts aren't bad since the 5.8 hand jams are so secure.The 10a crux has breath-taking exposure, but has BOMBER cams and jams, just plug and chug!If you've done 5.9+ in LCC, don't be afraid of this one!
This is an awesome line! The Triple O pitch is one of my favorite pitches anywhere. Most of this route (like 90%) is 5.8 or easier, and the 10a section is very well protected. The second pitch is scary looking, but not scary climbing, and is quite good. Most parties will want to stay roped up for one more pitch (easy but exposed) to the summit, making it a 5 pitch line. No need for a No.#4 camalot, but definitly double up on hand size cams. Go get it!
A while back we climbed a fun 5.8 variation, which avoids the first chimney. About 35'left of the first pitch we climbed face cracks (Hand & fingers) for 2 pitches to join back up with the regular route. We saw some very old pins on this variation.
Amazing route. Initial pitches are decent, but crux pitch is stellar and worth the hike. Ended up moving too high on the 2nd pitch hand crack into vertical smile - wasn't sure when to cut left into chimney. Agree w/ the 9+ comment about LCC. Felt easier than crux on Gordon's Hangover, and pro is all there. We brought and used a #4, doubles of everything else - but agree that a 3rd #2 would have been more useful instead.