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Vertical Smile 

Triple Overhangs 

5.10a

   

FA: Beckey, Reese, Irvine, 1962
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10a [details]
Length: 4 pitches, 550 feet
Views: 1,950 page views

Submitted By: Mark Michaels on Sep 1, 2004


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Crux onsighted....it's almost Miller time! Photo ...


Description 

The crux of Triple O's is my favorite pitch in the Wasatch. Tremendous exposure, spectacular rock, bomber gear. While the 1st and 2nd pitches are not as memorable, the crux is all I needed to put this one in my top 3 all time. You can, however, start and finish on Vertical Smile, for a supposedly more consistent, and challenging variation. If Beckey did it first in 1962, you know it's good.


Protection 

Cams up to 3 or 4 Camalot, hexes, stoppers.



Add Photo Photos of Triple Overhangs
N. Summit Wall Beta

BETA PHOTO: N. Summit Wall Beta

2nd Pitch of Triple Overhangs....some hollow sounding flakes, but super grippy granite....The overhangs are in the shadows in the upper right.

2nd Pitch of Triple Overhangs....some hollow sound...

Bob Starting the First Pitch of Triple O's.

Bob Starting the First Pitch of Triple O's.

Pulling the crux moves on Triple Overhangs, 10a, the best pitch in the Wasatch!<br /><br />Perspective makes the corner above look short.  But it's a sweet, sustained 5.8 handcrack that goes for about 70 - 80 feet.<br /><br />Photo by Vicente Planelles.

Pulling the crux moves on Triple Overhangs, 10a, t...

Fett leading the second pitch.

Fett leading the second pitch.

In the Triple Overhangs. Good rest right here.

In the Triple Overhangs. Good rest right here.

Starting the second pitch.

Starting the second pitch.

Old piton found below the <a href='/v/utah/wasatch_range/lone_peak_cirque/105741389'>Triple Overhangs</a> (July 2008).

Old piton found below the Triple Overhangs (July 2008...


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By Mark Michaels
From: Midvale, UT
Aug 4, 2005

After almost a decade since my first ascent, I finally repeated Triple Overhangs on 7/16/05.To edit my previous remarks above, the 2nd pitch was actually alot of fun! Gear: leave the #4 Camalot at home....1 #3 is as big as you need!I coulda used a couple more large stoppers/small hexes.Adding a 3rd #2 camalot for the 2nd and 4th pitches would have been nice, but the runouts aren't bad since the 5.8 hand jams are so secure.The 10a crux has breath-taking exposure, but has BOMBER cams and jams, just plug and chug!If you've done 5.9+ in LCC, don't be afraid of this one!

By tenesmus
Sep 4, 2006

Amazing how much more secure this pitch is compared to the .10 pitch just below on Vertical Smile. Nothing like .10 hands!

By Craig Martin
Sep 12, 2007
rating: 5.10a

This is an awesome line! The Triple O pitch is one of my favorite pitches anywhere. Most of this route (like 90%) is 5.8 or easier, and the 10a section is very well protected. The second pitch is scary looking, but not scary climbing, and is quite good. Most parties will want to stay roped up for one more pitch (easy but exposed) to the summit, making it a 5 pitch line. No need for a No.#4 camalot, but definitly double up on hand size cams. Go get it!

By bsmoot
May 8, 2008

A while back we climbed a fun 5.8 variation, which avoids the first chimney. About 35'left of the first pitch we climbed face cracks (Hand & fingers) for 2 pitches to join back up with the regular route. We saw some very old pins on this variation.

By Mark SLC
5 days ago

Amazing route. Initial pitches are decent, but crux pitch is stellar and worth the hike. Ended up moving too high on the 2nd pitch hand crack into vertical smile - wasn't sure when to cut left into chimney. Agree w/ the 9+ comment about LCC. Felt easier than crux on Gordon's Hangover, and pro is all there. We brought and used a #4, doubles of everything else - but agree that a 3rd #2 would have been more useful instead.