BETA PHOTO: This is looking up the route. Note the pine tree, ...
Description
There is a great drawn topo in the Ruckmans 96' guide on pg.439.
P1. Start in a left-facing thin corner moving over vegetation and passing a pine tree ( I dare you not to use the limbs for feet), gain a beautiful 3" splitter that ends on a nice ledge/belay. 5.9+ (in the guide there says there is a 5.9+mantle on grass, maybe I am reading the guide wrong, but we didn't find any grass mantle on the pitch.)
P2. Climb up left facing corner up to steep shallow cracks/grooves, these bring you up to the arete and to a 3" crack. Belay on the point/stance at the big horn. 5.8 PG-13 ( The guide says it's a R pitch but the leader found numerous cam placements, these were of course shallow, but there were quite a few. They probably didn't have sweet 3-cam units in 83'.)
P3. From the point/belay make a long stem (very cool) to gain a sweet finger splitter, follow the finger splitter up over a small roof until the pitch turns into double hands ( even cooler!). Belay in the gullley 5.7
P4. Ramble up non-descript gulley to the top of the buttress and great views. 5.4
We combined the last 2 pitches with a 70M rope.
Location
The route is on the lookers right of the South Summit wall, pg. 437 in the Ruckman guide has a great picture.
Protection
Doubles on everything from #4 camalots to #00 Metolius, long runners very helpful.
South Summit Wall
RSS Feed
