Stellar line. Thin face climbing crux that in 1995 had a 1/4 inch bolt for protection. Has it been replaced? Old school alpine 9+ R. Great rock. I would compare the crux of this route in style, difficulty, and boldness to the Viewing, 10a, on the Coffin....but remember, you're several hundred feet above the Cirque's floor on this one! Quite stimulating.
Awesome climb! I was scared shitless leading that 2nd pitch. A few years ago I followed it and still though it was quite difficult. The pro is sparse and small and I doubt the bolts been replaced.Do the Triple Overhangs & Vertical Smile first they are alot easier!
By Brian in SLC From: Salt Lake City, UT Jun 27, 2006
Great route. Bold lead. 1/4 bolt still there as of summer of 2003. Might be a full grade harder than the Viewing on the Coffin.
Climbed this route yesterday. Although the second pitch has a quarter inch bolt I found solid gear leading up to and just past it, not terribly run out. For what it's worth, the crux bolt was one of the healthiest looking 1/4 inchers I have ever clipped. I would say the second pitch is a slow-moving route-finding 10-. We found the route to be dusty and void of any chalk. If it were to be climbed more often and the chalk were to build up, I am sure it would ease the psych.
I agree with LA...I don't recall this as being super hard or super runout. The holds are there...just not obvious. And the setting and 1/4 incher make the pucker factor quite invigorating.
By Paul Hunnicutt From: Boulder, CO Nov 4, 2006 rating: 5.10 R
My brother lead this so I'm commenting not as a leader, but if you do this at night with headlamps while being eaten alive by mosquitoes it is for sure 5.10+...tricky gear placements and some difficult moves on the crux pitch, then each pitch following is easier and easier. Also stay on route while descending from the summit, again not fun with in the dark.
Summit Wall
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