Straight forward route finding, good protection, and an incredible location make this a prized route.
Approach up the boulder field to the right of the summit wall. Climb up an easy dihedral (5.3) for 40 feet to belay on a large ledge before the dihedral continues up at a slightly steeper angle.
All belays require natural anchors. Some horns may be slung for anchors, but these horns tend to not be in comfortable stances.
Pitch 1 - 5.6 - Climb up the v shaped dihedral for 30 feet until you reach a horizontal flake that transitions you 10 feet over to the right and up 10 feet to the belay ledge. A #2 Camalot perfectly protects the flake transition.
Pitch 2 - 5.7 Awkward Chimney - Calling this a chimney is almost misleading. It is more like a offwidth crack with plenty of holds inside and outside the crack so that you never have to use offwidth technique. The pitch goes directly up the wall out ten feet from the large dihedral on the left. There is a thin crack to the left the offwidth that takes good protection or use the crack at the back of the offwidth. Belay on a good ledge above the cracks.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 Bear Hug - Climb numerous fluted cracks above the ledge. After 50 feet the cracks form two perfect parallel hand cracks that continue for another 30 feet. After another 20 feet you reach a good belay ledge. You will pass two historic pitons on this pitch.
Pitch 4 - 5.7 - Easier climbing continues above the ledge as you lean left towards the large dihedral that you have been following for the entire route. Place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack just below a small roof and then pull over to the right of the roof. From here easy moves take you directly to the summit.
Descend to the north following the summit ridge. Descent to the cirque will take you under an hour.
If you study the photo, you shouldn't have any major route finding problems!
By Perin Blanchard Administrator From: Orem, UT Nov 13, 2007
Moved Lee Jensen's description from a comment to the route description.
By Jared Hargrave From: Salt Lake City, UT. Sep 22, 2008 rating: 5.7
Maybe it was the cold, lightning, thunder and hail that made this route not so fun. I need to try it again on a day with better weather. This is a solid 5.7 climb all the way to the last pitch. The off-width is the hardest section in my opinion. In fact that sharp granite is like a cheese grater on the arms and legs when you get sucked into it. Stay out where there are good holds! You will find awesome foot jams in the "Bear Hug" section. Not too difficult at all. I found this route protected well, but bring lots of big pro. We ran out of large cams and nuts on almost every pitch, therefore we had to do it in 5 pitches instead of 4. Also made protecting the belay interesting. The plus? It gets you to the top of Lone Peak where the view is amazing!
We had a single rack and it was plenty (and we did it in three pitches).
As I recall, it was a set of BD stoppers (#4 to #13), a set of BD C4's (#.3 to #3, with an extra #2), BD C3's #0 to #2, a dozen or so trad draws plus two or three double length slings.
I was just up there on Saturday July 18th! there is still a little snow inside the cirque. Water won't be a problem. you can melt snow with a stove. I used the Alpine approach. Lot of water along the way. No snow on the trail in.
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