Straight forward route finding, good protection, and an incredible location make this a prized route.
Approach up the boulder field to the right of the summit wall. Climb up an easy dihedral (5.3) for 40 feet to belay on a large ledge before the dihedral continues up at a slightly steeper angle.
All belays require natural anchors. Some horns may be slung for anchors, but these horns tend to not be in comfortable stances.
Pitch 1 - 5.6 - Climb up the v shaped dihedral for 30 feet until you reach a horizontal flake that transitions you 10 feet over to the right and up 10 feet to the belay ledge. A #2 Camalot perfectly protects the flake transition.
Pitch 2 - 5.7 Awkward Chimney - Calling this a chimney is almost misleading. It is more like a offwidth crack with plenty of holds inside and outside the crack so that you never have to use offwidth technique. The pitch goes directly up the wall out ten feet from the large dihedral on the left. There is a thin crack to the left the offwidth that takes good protection or use the crack at the back of the offwidth. Belay on a good ledge above the cracks.
Pitch 3 - 5.7 Bear Hug - Climb numerous fluted cracks above the ledge. After 50 feet the cracks form two perfect parallel hand cracks that continue for another 30 feet. After another 20 feet you reach a good belay ledge. You will pass two historic pitons on this pitch.
Pitch 4 - 5.7 - Easier climbing continues above the ledge as you lean left towards the large dihedral that you have been following for the entire route. Place a #3 Camalot in a horizontal crack just below a small roof and then pull over to the right of the roof. From here easy moves take you directly to the summit.
Descend to the north following the summit ridge. Descent to the cirque will take you under an hour.
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