Fran Bagenal on Out of the Question. Fantastic pit...
Description
This route is just right of the Lowe Route. Climb a flake, heading right past a fixed pin and up a dihedral. The second pitch wanders past some fixed gear and ends at a two bolt anchor. The last pitch climbs through the '?' and is reminiscent of the Lowe Route's last pitch, except without the crack for gear. Take your time on this pitch, it's easy to get off route and the pro is spaced. Supposedly, there's a bolt somewhere, I never found it; it probably sucks anyway. There are some good patina horns to sling.
This is a fantastic route. The last pitch is incredible. Caution though: Protection on the first pitch is a bit sparse. The belay atop this pitch uses cams behind a big, detached rock...sporty belay!
The initial flake is enormously juggy and fun. You can back up the fixed pin at the top of the flake with a hand sized piece before you move back right. There is a belay with fixed pins in the dihedral that is comfortable but sketch. There is also a two bolt belay just to the right that is hanging and uncomfortable yet very bomber.
The second pitch is worth the patience. There is a bolt on the last pitch and its kind of where you want it because it turns 5.8 with some great exposure. I was glad to find it. In some ways, this isn't as spectacular as Vertical Overhangs but it is more fun.
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