This route ascends the crack system that travels roughly right up the middle of the rectangular formation that extends out from the South Summit. This "thumb" formation was first ascended in 1959, via both sides of the formation. It wasn't until the Lowes showed up in 1970 that someone took a crack at the middle. Begin on the left side of a large blocky formation at the base of the "thumb" and ascend via a series of cracks to a belay at a piton (use small cams to back up the belay). Optionally, you can combine pitch 1 and 2 with a 60m rope. Continue up via this crack series to a shelf that extends nearly all the way across the formation and set up a trad belay (use your cordalette!). From this shelf, work up the cracks to the obvious middle crack, and belay at the next obvious shelf. From here, follow the cracks to where they exit to the left of the face. Now, suck it up and face the exposure! This is an awesome, exposed crack that moves up the overhanging left face of the formation to the top. Move fast, and use some runners on your pro to avoid drag if you climbed the right crack on the previous face. Belay at the two-bolt belay at the top of the formation. From here, descend down to the ledge that connects north to the flake system, and climb the long pitch up these flakes and cracks to the summit. This is definitely the best route on the "thumb" formation, but the fourth pitch (third if you combine 1 and 2)demands a lot of the leader, so be ready to commit to it.
Protection
Everthing from #4 Camalot to small nuts. Having a lot of mid-sized cams was very handy.
Great route that is very continuous from start to end. First pitch belay is at a pin midway up the 'Y' crack feature in the center of the thumb (5.7+). Pitch 2 belays at a nice ledge and belay perch about 120' (5.8). Pitch 3 also belays at a large ledge at ~100' or continue up to the left side of the thumb, just below the crux (5.8). If you do it this way, P3 is long (180'+), but allows you to talk to your belayer during the crux. The belay stance for this option is a small perch with a horn at the start of the handcrack. After the crux (5.9), there is a bolt at the top of the thumb (didn't see a second). Then traverse left to a lieback crack that you can take to the top of the South Summit Wall (5.6). Walk up and over towards the descent for the ? Wall (rap Pete's). The 5.9(?) variation to the final pitch looked like great fingers.
By TP in SLC From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Jun 21, 2007
This has to be one of my favorite routes anywhere. SO CLASSIC!
We did this route in 3 pitches with a 70M rope and triple set of cams ( I am sure doubles would be fine). Combine 1&2, 3&4 do the 5th from the top of the Thumb.
Props for the bolt at the top of the Thumb "summit". I hated belaying in those blocks.
South Summit Wall
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