The best 5.8 in the cirque, on the left side of the wall. Start in a sweet handcrack in a dihedral and belay on a ledge. The next pitch is a wandering 5.7, as is the last, amazing pitch on the headwall which follows a crack with ample face jugs.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Aug 30, 2004 rating: 5.8
Awesome climb - best route I've done in the Wasatch.
Pitch 1 starts well up and right of the rap anchor on Pete's Staircase. If you are using a rope on Pete's Staircase, it is probably best to belay at the first rap anchor and then again at the base of the dihedral. The dihedral pitch is amazing.
Pitch 2 is weird and traverses a lot. It is very easy to belay too low, and if you do I'm not at all sure you can make it to the top of pitch 3 with a 60 meter rope. Don't be tempted to belay at the first good ledge with a steep crack above it. Climb the crack for another 30 feet to another good ledge.
Pitch 3 is unreal. Fairly runout, but the chickenheads keep it comfortable. Very long and the features just keep coming until the spectacular topout. This is one of the best pitches I have ever done, anywhere.
A total classic! The dihedral is beyond fun with totally solid hand and foot jams and the last pitch is a dream of patina with INSANE exposure! The final pitch really protects quite well, however, the climbing is so fun and easy that, before you know it you may be twenty feet past yr last piece. The only bummer is,of course, the approach. But hey, it is a character building experience.I did this as a day trip which I really regret. The extra gear for an overnighter would be well worth it in my opinion. Once you are up there, you will not want to leave.
I guess I always knew the Lowe route was the most popular in the cirque, but this last weekend the large majority of the people coming up were there ONLY for the Lowe route. I can't imagine doing that hike for 3 pitches of climbing. They are some pretty awesome pitches though. The last pitch really is as good as everyone says, patina that comes right out of a dream.