One fantastic pitch of climbing makes this route very worth doing. Approach using Pete's staircase. Instead of linking Pete's in one long pitch, stop at the half-way belay tree. From here, trend right to avoid the steep rock below the Lowe route. One long pitch gets you to easy walking ground along the big ledge system.
Traverse the ledge until near its' end (600 feet or so). Look for a continuous right facing dihedral that is about 120 feet long. This dihedral is what makes the approach worth while. Climb up a gorgeous continuous dihedral for a long pitch to an anchor around a slung chockstone (3 star pitch). Then, a fairly long wandering pitch (5.3ish) gets you to the top.
Descent: Contour below the ridge crest back to the saddle. Descend Collins highway to the Pete's staircase rappels. Another option is to rap (one 60m rope) back to the ledge system.
Protection
Standard rack. I placed everything from a green alien up to a 3.5 camalot. This could easily be led without anything bigger than hand sized gear.
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Aug 31, 2004 rating: 5.8
If this pitch was near the road it would be 3 stars and have a line at all times. Spectacular crack - even better than pitch 1 of the Lowe Route. Too bad it isn't longer.
There is a rap anchor on the big ledge at the base just past the start of this route. It is probably a double rope rap to the ground, and is worth checking out if you don't top out since traversing the ledge is a pain.
If you top out, drop down a bit before traversing back to the saddle between Question Mark Wall and the South Summit Wall. If you are making moves harder than class 3, you are off route.
You guys didn't take a camera for your first trip to Lone Peak!!??? WTF??PS....how's the snow patch in the cirque? What approach did u use? Water? ....Mark
By Andrew Gram Administrator From: Denver, CO Sep 1, 2004 rating: 5.8
Don't worry - we took a camera and pictures will be coming as soon as i have time to compress them.
As of last weekend, there was a tiny dirty snowpatch at the base of the summit wall that some people were melting for water. never saw it running though, so you'll need a stove and maybe coffee filters to strain it. absolutely no other water along the approach from alpine. we just carried all of our water in, which was brutal but probably the best idea.
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