This section of the Cirque is beautifully laid out with about 20 routes ascending the many cracks and dihedrals that split this long formation until its' south end where it wraps west into Question Mark Wall. Beginning in the _V_ notch that separates the North Summit and South Summit, a wide variety of difficulty ratings and climbing techniques are available from the 5.4 _Pete's Staircase_, to the 5.10c _Roof Stopper_, as well as a few aid lines up to A2. The most prominent feature along this escarpment is Tom's Thumb, a large pinnacle jutting out from the northern section, which can be easily seen from the valley floor. The granite is good quality and placements are secure. Watch for rock fall along the lower angle routes, as the leader, or even the rope can easily dislodge material onto those below. As with the North Summit wall, hikers are also quite prevalent and I personally experienced an apple core _near miss_ which then actually touched my climbing partner as it hurtled down the face. Wear a helmet.
Getting There
Access the South Summit wall routes directly from the meadow via the talus field.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for South Summit Wall:
Center Thumb 5.9+ Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II
This route ascends the crack system that travels roughly right up the middle of the rectangular formation that extends out from the South Summit. This "thumb" formation was first ascended in 1959, via both sides of the formation. It wasn't until the Lowes showed up in 1970 that someone took a crack at the middle. Begin on the left side of a large blocky formation at the base of the "thumb" and ascend via a series of cracks to a belay at a pito...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
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