BETA PHOTO: The right facing/curving corner top pitch is in th...
Description
Pitch 1. Climb the first 10ft of Valentine Crack then move right into V groove. Up this then right again past a bolt. Carry on up cracks to just below the top where instead of the wide gravel chimney, finish left and up the easy groove. 5.10 110ft
Pitch 2. Layback and undercling the right facing/curving corner. 5.10+ 70ft
Location
Starts as for Valentine Crack. 70m rope helpful for descent. Great belay ledge hang.
Protection
Pitch 1. Standard rack with extra small/med nuts Pitch 2. Metolius red, yellow, small nuts/peenuts, blue, bolts.
The first pitch is pretty stout, lots of insecure lieback moves on the gritty slab with few rest opportunities. It gobbles nuts and small cams, bring a healthy supply. Make sure you traverse left next to Valentine at the top or you'll kick large choss pieces down. The second pitch is one of 3 candidates for greatest lieback crack in the Wasatch.
By Ras Fett From: Park City, UT 3 days ago rating: 5.11a
Almost got the onsite on the first pitch, sweet moves and good exposure. Will be a lot better with more traffic.
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