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Altered States Gully
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Romance on the Rocks 

5.10d

   

FA: Les Ellison and Dana Hauser 1980
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.10d [details]
Length: 1 pitch, 180 feet
Views: 57 page views

Submitted By: Stevie Nacho on Oct 12, 2009


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Description 

There is one distinct crux in the middle of the route, however getting to the first bolt could be considered the mental crux. To quote the Ruckmans guidebook "Hold your breath getting to the first bolt. This took a monumental effort to equip, with multiple falls occurring when the first ascentionists drilled bolt #4."

Climb the corner system that shares the start with Altered States "crack," then traverse right under a small roof. After reaching the start of a chickenhead system charge up to the high first bolt. Follow more bolts and hard friction, to some naturally protected climbing to a bolted belay.


Protection 

small to medium cams, quickdraws, double length slings for the gear placed before the first bolt. Save some small to medium stuff for the last 25'.



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By Stevie Nacho
From: Utah
Oct 12, 2009

Jeans are a great piece of gear for this route. If you recreate the falls committed by the first ascentionists like I did, do not wear modern, thin, and cute prana pants. I found this leads to cheek raspberries.

A brilliant and beautiful pitch that every slab addict should do.

sn