Des Teufel's Bollwerk 

FA:  James Garrett and Felix Hörmann, 15 July 2009 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Snow, Alpine Consensus:  5.9 [details] Length:  7 pitches, 800 feet, Grade III Season:  Conditions depending Views: 214 page views Submitted By: James Garrett on Jul 23, 2009 Add Photo  Add Comment

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The line in yellow

Description 

Des Teufel's Bollwerk (The Devil's Bastion) is a grand adventure alpine climb up the NE Face starting up the Apron and tops out on the very top of Devil Castle's highest Eastern summit. The Apron is well known to winter skiers while skiing in the Devil's Castle area of Alta.

As snow melts out of the Apron, the lower pitches will be more loose and unstable...but should be still quite doable.

The lower pitches during our ascent still retained quite a bit of snow, we experienced no spontaneous rockfall and all belays are quite protected. No signs of previous traffic were noted on any part of the line we followed.

Pitch #1: Hug the right side of the Apron to a loose rock step and belay in an alcove. No fixed protection. 5.4, 60m.

Pitch #2: Move left to an obvious hands/fist crack up improving rock until the crack ends. Move right up the slab past a bolt to a ledge and one bolt belay. 5.8, 60m.

Pitch #3: Traverse right to a steep step and climb past one bolt to a huge bomber block and a one bolt belay. 5.7, 30m.

Pitch #4: (Das Bollwerk) Climb up into the steepening slot to a bolt on the bulging face (pockets!) to the right. Continue up the chimney/slot to a two-bolt belay. 5.9, 25m.

Pitch #5: ("The Mad Münchner pitch) Move right on a ledge above the chimney and follow pockets and edges past 5 bolts on pretty good rock to a loose but lower angle band. Now tenuously (your belayer is protected!) traverse right past another bolt to a two-bolt belay ledge. 5.9, 50m.

Pitch #6: (Wall registration and chill out spot) Follow a tag line to the left and around the corner. Belay on a ledge in the "Chockstone Corridor". 4th class, 10m.

Pitch #7: Pocket pull yourself up past a bolt and fixed piton to a phenomenally fine and steep finger/hand crack and belay at a two-bolt belay ledge just below the summit top. 5.9, 25m.

Walk off via the trail. This route is not equipped for descent.

Location 

See photo/topo. Start on the right side of the Apron. Orientation should be quite straight forward.
Rappeling the route is not advised. Descent is best via the Black Streak rappels or walking off via the trail.

Protection 

QDs and set of Camalots from C3 to #3. Many stations only have one bolt, but most people will feel this to be adequate. Pitch #5 may feel wild and a bit scary, but it is German engineered (read quality).

Helmets without question.