The cruxes to this route are following the second pitch and the lasso at the beginning of the fourth. Each pitch is fairly short, yet have great features and moves. The nailing is straightforward and cams appear every couple of placements. The third pitch gets thin, with multiple tied off blades. Every belay has new (2009) bolts along with every lead bolt.
Location
This route is located on the right side of the fin high above Altered States Gully. Approach as for the Dorsal Fin, then do a 5.6 pitch which angles up then right for a full rope length. Some simi-climbing is needed to reach the chain anchor for The Gills. The first pitch starts to the left (west) of the chain anchor. This is the short bulge crack (8') that traverses left (west) to a bush.
Protection
-One set of hand sized cams (Black diamond .75-3)
-Two sets of t.c.u.'s (Metolius purple, blue, yellow)
The bolts are all new as of 2009, but there are a few old bolts in which we couldn't remove. Please take the necessary tools to "yank" these and patch the old holes.
Kudos to the Smoot brothers for the lasso on the fourth pitch. I'm sure it will remain one of my most mememorable moments in that canyon. It makes me want to go climb Nob Job.
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