This steep and wild line ascends the west side of The Egg. Tendon and joint complaints ruled me out for freeing it, but there is no question that someone soon will get a great free pump out of this unique climb. It will be interesting to hear the reports and it will probably yield more stars as a free climb. Equipped and cleaned on lead.
3rd class up a trench-like groove to the base of the route from the trail. Belay to the left of an overhang.
Pitch #1: Two bolts protect the initial slab climbing nice knobs to a crack which soon steepens below the flake. Layback up the overhanging fingers to hand crack to a 3 bolt belay. Beautiful! 5.11c 25m.
Pitch #2: Continue up and left now climbing steep well protected slab past 6 bolts to a two-bolt belay on top of The Egg. ?, 20m.
Rappel the route.
Location
Walk up the newly revised and pleasant Egg trail. A gear belay was set up near the base of the route in a somewhat protected alcove.
Sounds amazing. Hard to believe a line that sounds that good was overlooked for so long, but then you seem to be able to spot these things better than anyone else. Can't wait to try it!
You will note on the topo in the 1997 Ruckman Guide that it was simply written off as "rotten". Climbers back then didn't carry as often wire brushes, hand saws, and crowbars; now seemingly common (and expected!) new school practices...which is a good thing.
Nice work. That looks like one steep, tough line. A couple other minor routes grace that same starting nook that might be worth mentioning... a fun knob/crack route climbs right out of the alcove joining up with Over Easy at mid height (~5.6). I've always called it by the unoriginal name of "Rotten Egg" based upon the same verbage James mentions from the Ruckman's topo. Another short route (and variation) head out left from the alcove up the left facing dihedral (or associated slab). It (and it's buddy) is about 5.5 and surprisingly good (albeit short).
A fun little area that is definitely better than the "rotten" stigma attributed by the Ruckman topo! Cheers.
Any info on the route starting 15m below and to the right (Around the corner from all of the known Egg routes), starts with a few bolts up the arete and then? Abandoned? Run out to the top? Good rock for sure
By Ras Fett From: Park City, UT Jul 18, 2009 rating: 5.11c A0
I have been working the 1st pitch once a week for the past 5 weeks. Today was my 5th day on the route and finally broke threw the crux. The crux for me was getting threw the finger locks and lie backs to the fist jams, I think its about 11. Saw snakes almost every day i went up there (Ski pole help). Besides the snakes this was a sweet climb to work on. I did a lot of scrubbing with a nut tool and took off some loose holds, its looking pretty clean now. Tried the second pitch today and got shut down. The first pitch is sweet, go do it! I would like to see what others think of the grade. Thnx James!
By Ras Fett From: Park City, UT Oct 30, 2009 rating: 5.11c A0
Damn... Thought someone else would have tried this route by now, the first pitch seems like a classic to me. Its hard to find something that overhanging in this canyon.
Yo Fett, Don't sweat it....it seems most of the hard core boys and girls in the self righteous Wasatch (at least the sprayers on MP) recently are still way all too worked up about a few bolts on other routes in LCC and BCC...maybe they don't want to actually climb Cracked Egg, just chop it, after all, a few fixed pieces do detract from the overall beauty of the route and it is so much fun struggling to get in a good piece in the wide flared section. Actually, I am quite sure it was climbed sometime before without any cleaning or bolts. The 1 1/2" bush was probably the descent route sans slings..
I went back up there a few months ago, too and my Euro friends loved it. Keep the faith....the next generation will be flocking up there...I can assure you. Not every overnight sensation endures. BTW, I am convinced the 2nd pitch fixed pieces (I am hesitant to say the word "bolts") are actually in good spots...more options maybe?, but that is where they felt best while leading it? You should give it another go. cheers
James will you stop being such a dong? There are 100s of quality lines to get after and this is the reason peeps are not "flocking" to your future classic. Chasing FAs is not everyone's thing man. Offer a damn 6 pack already, maybe it will lure someone there.
I could give a rat's ass whatever you do with your time, unless you are busy destroying (i.e. chopping)...I am most certainly NOT going to buy Boissal or anyone else a beer to go climb some route...
I was just answering Eric's innocent question the most straight forward way I could. Actually, I have been known for buying a few rounds post climbing on many occasions.
Also, Cracked Egg DOES have some bolts next to cracks, but I would highly suggest you climb it all free not clipping any of the bolts before you unsheath your chisel. I agree with Eric, it is a great route...your loss.
By Ras Fett From: Park City, UT Nov 6, 2009 rating: 5.11c A0
James, I haven't gone back yet to try the second pitch, its still on the list. Don't know where the dong thing came from, seems like someone should take this route off the todo list LOL! Hope the Unichopper doesn't get to this one! Just looking for opinions on the climbing and grade, glad to hear your friend liked it James.
Super fun route, James. Clipped all but the last bolt, and climbed all free it in one 140'? pitch. Did you place that old bong towards the end of the first pitch or was it there already?
strong work...you guys are hardcore...that's all I gotta say. I gotta do something with all those stacks of bongs I have at home. I don't climb in the Fishers much anymore....A Cam would definitely work, but I placed it the second time up as I didn't want to fiddle with it...all free, all together...wow! It;s gettin cold over here in Nepal...looking forward to sunny Wasatch/desert cragging.
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