Somewhere between Certain Death and Uncertain Death, you are Flirtin' Death.
This line starts near the start for Beam me Up Scotty and follows the right-leaning dihedral out to the steeper wall. Just as the climbing gets a bit tougher, the gear a tad trickier and the rock much grainier, a bolt appears out to the left. clip and continue to the chickenhead and keep mantling up ledges to the belay. The bolts at the belay ledge are a bit awkwardly placed since it was Kent's first bolt on the pitch and he was a bit antsy to get one in! Bring a long sling or extra shoulder length slings to build something handy. This pitch is 5.10
For the second pitch take the crack up until you can clip the bolt near the huge chickenhead. Move up and right eventually getting out to the horn on the arete. A huge, juggy chickenhead is just out of reach so figure out the beta to stand up and mantle onto it. From here it is engaging (but easy!) mantles up to the anchor.
Location
On the upper waterfront. From Disco Duck area, cruise up the slab on your right.
You can just barely reach the ground from the anchors atop the 2nd pitch with a single 70m rope.
Note: 1 foot of 3/8" Zinc plated chain at the Ace Hardware on 4th South, with tax costs $5.12 That was enough motivation for us.
Protection
1st Pitch - Standard LCC rack. nothing bigger than a 1 or 2 camalot. Fingers pieces would be handy, long slings are a must.
2nd Pitch - a few finger sized cams to keep the start from being too spicy. Then 6 quickdraws. A 0.3 C4 is pretty crucial. Some other draws for the anchors as well.
The first pitch is typical LCC- not that good, but not that bad-1.5 stars. Bring a double length sling to equalize the way too spaced out bolts at the top of the 1st pitch-great belay ledge! The second pitch...Killer position! Two things- the first bolt on the 2nd pitch is not needed-great finger sized gear is found 3 feet left of the bolt. It seemed more natural to just climb the finger crack direct to the roof, instead of clipping the 1st bolt, climbing right, and then climbing back left to the roof. I also think the line would be better (perhaps deserving of 4 stars), and even more aesthetic had the top been engineered to finish directly up the steep exposed arete instead of up the "trough." You can finish it up the arete as is, but the fall would be a little ugly. Either way you choose-trough or arete- the crux guards the topout. 3 stars.
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