Maverick Line, aka the McCain/Palin Memorial Route.
Start about 20’ left of Squeeze My Lemon by a wide dirty crack. From the starting ledge, high step on the slab, clip the first bolt (use a locker) then slab/lieback the sloping edge of the crack until you can reach a big chicken head. From there 2 options: clip and climb straight up (gritty slab) or clip then downclimb a move and slab dyno out right to another chickenhead mantle (fun) before heading up to the SML crack. Continue above the crack following the chickenheads to a ramp. Fiddle in a micro and get in the right-trending finger traverse above. Follow it (great fingerlocks) until the crack pinches out and gets vegetated then tackle the slab above (thin, crux) heading for the mini-roof. Protect under the right side of the roof (avoid its lowest point for gear as it is pretty hollow) then mantle on the slab and shoot straight up to the arête. You can then make a couple of moves left to reach the chains.
Refrain from traversing over to the arête too early (as in don't follow the finger traverse through the grassy sections to its end, don't traverse right at the roof), it robs you of the best slab moves and makes you wander in uncleaned territory: every hold will break.
Location
Follow the approach to Lizard Head wall. The climb starts 20’ left of Squeeze My Lemon by a tree-filled wide crack (Zesty is on the other side of it).
Descent: lower or rap from the anchors. Some 60m are a bit short so watch the ends of you rope. 70m will bring you peace of mind.
Protection
2 bolts, locking carabiner on the first one. C4s from #2 down to .4 and C3s down to purple. Double on green and red C3s useful.
The 1st bolt was originally drilled form the starting ledge and a fall getting to the chickenhead would have been bad on the ankles. It was later moved up about a foot. Right now it can’t be clipped form the safety of the ledge, you have to make that touchy first move and clip from a friction stance (not ideal), but you'll swing over the ledge if you miss the chickenhead and fall. I'd use a locking biner on it just to be on the safe side. Might be wise to work the opening sequence on TR to get a feel for that 1st clip. An attentive belayer will keep you from rolling off the ledge if you fall before you clip.
By Bobby Hanson From: Salt Lake City, UT Nov 18, 2008 rating: 5.10 R
I TRed this route after Alexi and Sam put it up (nice work, guys). The state it is in right now, I wouldn't want to lead it. It is quite runout. That's not to say that it needs more bolts. If you guys leave it as is I'm sure it will still get climbed.
The crux is the first three moves, and it is harder than 10-. The rest is 10-. It would be nice to have a bolt for those first moves, but I understand the ledgefall concern.
Also, the friction from the first big chickenhead to the second big chickenhead is good! I didn't do the dyno, but it looks fun also.
You can actually cheat a little and step on a stump in the muddy slot out left to easily clip the 1st bolt. That's fair dinkum in me book. Then you can get back down to the ledge and start the climbing.
TRed this today and really liked it. It'll continue to clean up more. We cleaned quite a bit off of it. Looks like a spooky lead fer shure. Very fun moves down low, through the right-arching seam, and connecting some of the heads.
Thanks, it adds more good stuff to the area.
By Tyler King From: Salt Lake, UT Dec 6, 2008 rating: 5.10+ R
Sounds like it is recommended for the first few moves to use the arete to the left. TR'd this today and only used the arete for the first move off of the ledge. Does continuing to use the arete make it much easier? If so I would buy the 10- grade. Cool moves either way.
By Ras Fett From: Park City, UT Apr 8, 2009 rating: 5.10b/c R
I climbed this route yesterday not knowing what it was and thought it was a bit hard for 10-, i thought at least solid 10. To clip the first bolt I did the leap of faith and jumped to get the draw on and clipped from the ledge (Im about 6' and took a couple of jumps). After the second bolt I went to the crack just left of SML. Some fun moves in the small crack to get to this sweet slanting hand crack that connects the end of SML. After the second bolt there was some bushes in the way, I cleaned some out but could use a little more cleaning for this variation. Some fun climbing!
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