First Pitch starts in a seam like corner, look for one bolt leading to a 2 bolt anchor, the second pitch crack is visible from the start, Second pitch is the obvious crack leading to anchors. Bring a 70m rope. Originally 5.8x.
Location
Booty wall area
Protection
Standard Little Cottonwood Rack up to #3.5 or #4 camalot
The second pitch is pretty cool for the 5.8 leader. To finish it, you can either go straight up from the dihedral or traverse right across the slab above the roof with decent pro for 20-30 feet to another 2 bolt/chain anchor. If you finish this way you can rap directly over a roof to a second set of anchors with one more rap getting you to the first pitch anchors.
I'd give this another star if the first pitch wasn't so runnout for the 5.8 leader. If it had 2 more bolts it'd be fine but my friends were freaked out the way it is.
This climb was given the X rating because if you fall the gear would not hold, you will slam into the talus and in all likelyhood die. This climb went down with zero bolts and some pro that took a long prayer session just to stay in the rock. It travels through some really good rock with no protection opportunities for about 50'and then breaks left on a ramp which parallels the roof. Protection is not a problem on this section of the climb. Move up and toward the second pitch crack at the break in the roof.We thought the crack would be some crippler and were super surprised to find the sweetness we did. Bob and I are in the process of adding another bolt. So this climb will stay exciting but will become much more comfortable for the 5.8 leader.This climb is at LEAST R right now.
On a side note when I do a climb now days it is for my own selfish ass. I also doubt that any of the climbers that I look to for examples, tradition, and inspiration (whether Joe Brown or Brian Smoot or George Lowe) were taking me and my pansy ass into consideration when they were/are out establishing lines. In fact you should see the shit stains in my underoos. Nahhh.... I am positive more and more each day that the tradition I hope to follow involves more fear, more sacking up, and fewer bolts. Right after the first post attacking George Lowe for not considering the 5.8 leader I will re-consider my current philosophy.
Hey Luke! I agree that this route is really good. I think I snapped that photo of John Star. I don't think you should add any bolts, this route protects where you need it too. I didn't feel it to be dangerous, so you should keep it in its original state.
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