Mischievous Moroni 

FA:  Luke Douglas,Tyler Phillips '07 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad, Sport Consensus:  5.10a [details] Length:  2 pitches, 200 feet, Grade II Season:  Summer Views: 84 page views Submitted By: Luke Douglas on Nov 5, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Mischievous Moroni area

Description 

Pitch1-From the grey bolt that marks the start move up and slightly left, aiming for a short left facing corner.As you approach the corner keep alert for any TCU placements.Two more bolts deposit you on a ramp.Make your way across the ramp to a ring piton which marks the path through this jumbley roof. A traverse,above the roof and to the right will lead you to the anchor. 5.10a
See topo this page.
For an alternate start you can skip the bolts and go directly up the ramp to the ring pin.
Pitch 2-Pad your way up to the black roof, taking care to slot a #0 at the roofs left apex.Make some hard and balancy moves over the lip and follow the shallow corner up to a second roof.A pin at the roofs lip leads to a bolt and the belay. 5.10a
Pitch 3-If you have followed the Mischievous Ones path this far keep the faith and persevere. Your reward is near. See the GOLDEN PLATES route description for pitch 3

Location 

This climb begins aprox. 100' up canyon from the first pitch of North of Heaven. Once you come to the foot of a big ramp continue around to its front and locate the bolt that marks the start of pitch 1.

Protection 

Rack to #2 Camalot, 3 #1 TCU's, many slings, Rap North of Heaven