This might be the some of the best rock in Tanners. The low angle slab looks foreshortened from the ground, it's 200+ feet long and after that it rears up into a nice headwall in places. The features on this slab are amazing, it reminds me of the City of Rocks in places. Black streaks and patina abound on it.
This area holds moderate slab pitches and a few challenging sport pitches too. The belays are all on really cool ledges with awesome views down Tanners gulch and across the canyon.
Snowpack leaves dirt and rocks here and there down lower so be on your toes. The rock is broken at the bottom but seems to climb enjoyably.
Most of the routes on the right hand side (south) have sub-belays at a common ledge at about 30 feet up. This is so you can see and hear your leader. I recommend using it for the first few times up there,
The pine tree in the left hand corner on the slab had some webbing on it so tight I had a hard time getting my knife behind it to cut it loose as the bark was growing around it. The tree bears that webbing scar. This was one of two pieces of webbing we found in the canyon while climbing.
The entire area was put up ground first.
Getting There
Hike all the way up the gulch. Passing Pirate Treasure is a obvious low angle slab with a steep broken start and a steep headwall with black streaks. This is the Hidden Heavenly Slab.
The Classics
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Hidden Heavenly Slab:
One of my personal favorites in the canyon.P1. Start on the far right side beginning up steep roofy terrain. Find a fixed pin, above the pin a large cam gets things started about 15 feet up (easy), from the cam climb up passing 3 bolts to the roof. From here shuffle left and up and over roof using a very cool finger pocket. 5.10+P2. From chain belay/rap climb up to the left of the small pine growing out of the roof. Once you gain the slab proper ...[more]Browse More Classics in UT
This is where I learned not to tell Tyler and Luke, "Dude, that slab up there has potential for a ton of cool routes you could drill on lead!" Honestly, I'm kidding. I am so psyched I did because they worked their magic and (in good style) made a really fun crag up there.
It should be noted that most of the routes (especially on the southern end) have been linked together ie: Start on 6 Ways end on Indie dog or Personal Jihad, Lonely Sinner to Apostate Apostle, Apostate to 6 ways,6 Ways to North of Heaven, Lots of link ups have gone down.
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