P1. Start on the far left of the sun deck boulder, climb up to roof clipping a bolt, then straight up the slab passing more bolts. Go passed chain anchor to belay at 2 bolts w/ no chain below beautiful featured face. 5.7
P2. Start crimping and pimping up one hell of a fine face to 2 bolt anchor/rap. 5.10+
P3. From the anchor climb up and right around the bush, angle left passing cool features and a pin into the “lighting bolt crack”, pull small roof and scramble up dirt passing a few more technical moves until a sweet ledge (General Disarray belay ledge) and fixed pin is found down and climbers right from the Butters pitch under the tree. 5.8
P4. From nice ledge climb up into obvious hand/finger crack. Don’t forget to look around for all the sweet features for hands and feet. Hang on through 2 very steep “pods”, crank one last move and clip the anchors. Butters Pitch 5.10 **** Bring lots of thin hand sizes
Location
Find the large boulder at the head of the gulch w/ a nice slab in back of it and a flat top to belay. About 100 yards up from Witches and Divas. (see topo)
Descent: Rap from the Butters pitch back down towards big pine on Captain Caveman, from big pine rap back to the top of the 2nd pitch of the Minions Of Chaos. From 2nd pitch of Minions rap back to the top of the slab routes. We used a 70m rope.
Protection
QD's. A full rack up to #4 camalot. Doubles on #1 & .75 camalot and finger sized TCU's is nice. Shoulder slings. Helmet. .
Finally this route got posted so I can spray how damned good it is. I've done it twice and believe it too be one of the best multi-pitch routes in LCC. Move for move the sport pitch and last pitch handcrack are ultra-classic! DO IT!
Working on this route was a great time. When we first arrived at the base of the Butter's pitch we were super stoked to find it was not the wide monster it appeared from afar. Choked with deadly chockstones it took some sweat and fear to rid the crack of these. At one point when a particularly large rock rolled out of the crack and into my lap I clinched up as if Butter's minions had started a back door attack. Cool moves on a hand friendly crack that you do not have to jam your feet into. You will surely hate it!
This is a great route. The second pitch is one of the best face pitches I've done on the granite. It's like a 5.10 version of All Chalk and No Action, but longer. The steep 4th pitch has lots varied jamming...great way to finish!
By triznuty From: Murray, UT Sep 28, 2009 rating: 5.10+
What a great climb! Just wish it didn't have that 3rd pitch though. The 2nd and 4th pitches are what you came for and are well worth doing.. I can't wait to come back and climb more in the area. The granite on the butters pitch felt and climbed just like Fergy stone. The FA's have done a wonderful job working this whole area.
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