The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
The 3rd crack over
Description
After coming up Tarzan or Sweet Jane there is a sub-belay about 40 feet up. From anchor climb like your going up Sweet Jane but instead of going right go straight up a crack that slams shut. Near the terminus of the crack make a move to the left (towards Cheetah) into a really nice crack. Finger jam your way up this crack to it's end. Grab the chickenhead at the top (and wish there were 8 more), then slab your way (no pro) back to the Tarzan/"tourist variation" crack (right) where it changes cracks.
It looks possible to go over to Cheetah but the run-out looks longer and maybe harder.
This crack was packed flush with dirt and moss. After working it with a nut tool it turns out there is a nice crack under it.
Location
The 3rd crack to the left of Sweet Jane. The crack closest to Cheetah.
Protection
A rack of nuts,a blue HB offset (crux piece for me, but I am sure you could wiggle in something else) TCU's and a handcam for the finish.
Beckey's Wall Area
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