Doggystyle 5.10+ FA. T. Phillips, L. Douglas/ Summer 05'
Start from the same area as Stifflers Mom.
P1. Start in broken dihedral climb up clipping fixed pin to a mini roof. Clip bolts along the edge for some truley exicting moves. The pitch was meant to stay on the arete after the first two bolts. 5.10+
P2. Climb up from belay through broken sections to a short slab with 1 bolt to the belay. 5.7+
P3. From belay climb up and right clipping fixed pin to killer handcrack that passes the roof on the right side. After pulling around the roof clip bolt and friction along the lip of the roof to another bolt. Climb straight up to belay. 5.10
P4. From belay follow obvious bolt line along arete to anchor. 5.8
It is possible to continue onto Stifflers Mom 5th pitch or the 5th pitch of the Precious Lost for a longer journey. which you need a 70m for.
the route was named in honor of the MAN Snoop Dogg.
It was one of the most exciting ground up adventures I've had in LCC.
Protection
Rack: QD's a standard rack up to #2 camalot (two #2's are nice). A 60m rope will let you rap route with 1 rope.
Climbed DoggyStyle on sept. 6th. Awesome job on the first pitch, I bet that was exciting from the ground up. Nice cracks on the third pitch. Thanks for all the new routes. You have a good eye for lines.
Contrived link-up of dirt ledges via moss covered exfoliating slab with 15 ft of good crack climbing on the third pitch. May clean up sometime, but not worth 2 stars…
I thought that arete was cool, the hand crack traverse was cool, and the last 5.8 pitch would be a really great lead for a 5.8 or 9 slab climber - it was really enjoyable.
3rd pitch seemed less than 5.10 to me and I'm not very svelte. I thought it nice to have a #3 camalot also for this and the 5.7 pitch--although not absolutely necessary. Thanks.
CoalPit Buttress
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