The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
My anonymous partner showing me how easy the stems...
Description
The dihedral just right of Half-a-Finger, is Black and White John and Mary. The start is typically wet and is a rarely climbed 5.11 variation. Otherwise start left of the dihedral on a flake, and work into the dihedral above the moisture. Continue on up the dihedral with pumpy liebacks, and fun stems. I enjoyed this route a lot.
Awesome route!! Much harder for me than Equipment Left. Many cruxes and very sustained.
By MarkEMark From: Cottonwood Heights, UT Jul 13, 2008 rating: 5.10c
The Ruckman book has the top of this route traversing left and sharing the same chains as Hal-A-Finger. There are another set of chains if you continue directly op some scary flakes. I was wondering if anyone knew which is the "true" top of this climb?
I tried to reach the upper chains, but it was a bit intimidating, so I followed the Ruckman route to Half-A-Finger. The direct option seemed a bit harder and a little runout...
By Drew Bedford From: Wasatch Back, UT Aug 15, 2008
The direct finish was added by Doug Heinrich about five or six years ago. It does check in at about 11b, but the gear is there. The original finish (5.10) does cut left to the Half a Finger belay.
Dihedrals Area
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