Climb the varnished, featured face with a piece or two of gear then clipping a bolt before you either a)move straight up and onto a ramp across the little chimney with a little runnout mantle to a stretch clip OR b)move up and left on good gear towards a big belay ledge. Then climb the face to the left of the blue collar crack for another 4 bolts on the cool slab including chickenheads and a thin dike with edges. (ok, not really edges but fingertip crimps in the varnish)
Location
To the left of Squeeze My Lemon is a little alcove with a steep left wall and a mottled, highly featured face.
Protection
5 draws (or is it 6) with a few being long and a nut or medium cam if you go left after the first bolt.
We asked around a bit and have never been able to find the FA's of this really fun climb. Its a lot cleaner now as we scrubbed and swept the entire face. Its just as classic as Mind Blow or Knobs to Gumbyland or, dare I say it... ok, not as good (at all) as Dorsal Fin due to positon, history and length. About the same difficulty before we cleaned it though - but more sustained I think. Kind of like Romance on the Rocks with more features. Probably doesn't get led much but if you wanted a warmup for the Dorsal Fin this would be key. Used to have the crappiest scary anchor that has been updated to a 2-bolt rap setup.
Lizard Head Wall
RSS Feed
