This route was cleaned out by Gregg, Clay and Dallen. Climb the corner using the small crack in the wall for gear. At the headwall climb up into the arching crack. Follow the crack up to a set of anchors. Pitch 2 follows a double crack up to a great stance and anchors.
Location
This Route starts in the corner just West of Zesty. Follow a big corner up and step out on the Shelf 50 feet up.
Protection
Standard Trad. rack -- nuts, tcu's through 3.5 or 4 BD cam. 3 sets of bolt and chain anchors for the rap. Can be done with a 60 M rope.
It took us about 40 hours to clean this thing out. Hence the name. The crack is serrated in the middle and under what seemed like thousands of years of dirt and debris. Cool finger, hand and fist jamming and strangely, part of the crack lets you do all 3 at once. You don't really need bigger than a #3 camalot (if you don't have one) as there is optional small gear in the crack where that #4 can go. Might be 5.9.
You can easily TR the really cool unknown slab to the right of this route. This is a fun lead and we gave it some much needed tlc and scrubbing. After scrubbing everything down we even swept that whole face with a push broom.
Weird stuff for sure, really uncommon features in the crack. The crux was at the top for me when it gets steep and the lock/jams get more spaced. Interesting pro the whole way, not as straightforward as I'm used to. I didn't take the #4 and got away with a #3 and micros. The scrub oak at the end of the wide section has grown back to a pretty hefty size, makes for a bushwack halfway up the route. I'll go back up to do the second pitch as we finsished on redneck slab.
Glad yo enjoyed. Me and Ten noticed the new plantlife as well. We/Dallen will try to whhaaaacckk it soon. To all: Feel free to clean/remove any vegetation. Let the ethics battles begin :)
By Shaun Greene From: www.UtahShaun.com Oct 27, 2008
This crack is so cool...It would be a shame to have the climb ruined by the scrub oak coming back. Nice work on this route, it is my favorite in the area.
Very interesting for sure. We wondered why the crack looked so funky. Fun lead. We also did the line that contines up and left of the main crack. This followed the clean LB's up into the stemming on the right most edge of the huge flake that cuts the chimney in half. Does anyone know what this line is called?
By Tristan Higbee From: Provo, Utah Nov 22, 2008 rating: 5.8+
Fun climb. It looks like the crack is riddled with giant pin scars (even though I know that's not what they are). We did the more direct version that's marked in the topo pic on this page.
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