This route was cleaned out by Gregg, Clay and Dallen. Climb the corner using the small crack in the wall for gear. At the headwall climb up into the arching crack. Follow the crack up to a set of anchors. Pitch 2 follows a double crack up to a great stance and anchors.
Location
This Route starts in the corner just West of Zesty. Follow a big corner up and step out on the Shelf 50 feet up.
Protection
Standard Trad. rack -- nuts, tcu's through 3.5 or 4 BD cam. 3 sets of bolt and chain anchors for the rap. Can be done with a 60 M rope.
It took us about 40 hours to clean this thing out. Hence the name. The crack is serrated in the middle and under what seemed like thousands of years of dirt and debris. Cool finger, hand and fist jamming and strangely, part of the crack lets you do all 3 at once. You don't really need bigger than a #3 camalot (if you don't have one) as there is optional small gear in the crack where that #4 can go. Might be 5.9.
You can easily TR the really cool unknown slab to the right of this route. This is a fun lead and we gave it some much needed tlc and scrubbing. After scrubbing everything down we even swept that whole face with a push broom.
Lizard Head Wall
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