The land is owned by the LDS Church please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people the land starting at LDS Church vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. This includes, the Fin, Thumb, Green A, Schoolroom, and Gate Buttress. Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors because in part of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quaried and is presently under revegetation. The trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the climber's trail so this area can recover.
BETA PHOTO: Dihedrals area
Description
Lisa's Shoulder is the first major dihedral left of Satan's Corner. It is a fun gear-protected face climb. It is given a R in the guidebooks, but protection can be found to make it safe. Probably the most dangerous part of the route can be avoided. The first part of the climb is a dihedral without a crack. Instead, start by climbing up a difficult bulging hand crack just to the left which is about 10 feet long. Then pull up through bulges on the face to the start of a thin seam. Climb up this seam placing small cams and clipping a bolt. This face is thin with good feet. Then finish up the airy arete right for 15' to the anchor.
Rap with one rope off of the chain anchors.
Protection
One bolt, standard rack with small cams (tcu or alien)
By Stan Pitcher From: SLC, UT Mar 17, 2005 rating: 5.9
Great route!!!The stemmy lower crux can be marginally protected with a long sling over the shallow bulge in the corner. The airy finish is well protected with a 3 camalot.
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Jun 30, 2005 rating: 5.8+
This wasn't as good as I was expecting. I would almost feel better with the small gear that would work over that bolt.
I agree, the hand crack protects well but felt more like 9+, harder than the upper face. It might make it a better route too, adding a couple of small overhangs. The upper face and arete finish are just fun, plenty of interest for such a short pitch.
Dihedrals Area
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