The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>
Unknown by many people, the land, from at the LDS Church record vaults up to and including the Gate Buttress is owned by the LDS Church. The privately-owned areas include The Fin, The Thumb Area, Green Adjective Gully, Schoolroom Area, and Gate Buttress.
Over the past 40 years there have been several closures of this property to climbing.
Currently, climbers are welcome visitors in part because of Utah's Land Owner Liability Law and the work of local climbers to preserve access.
In 1998 through 2000 this area was quarried and is presently under restoration and re-vegetation. The climbers' trail goes through part of this area. Please stay on the trail so that this area can recover.
Climbing Split Fingers. A really, really good rou...
Description
From where you split right from Becky's Wall, a thin lieback leads up and right past a bolt (where an old knifeblade used to be). Then you gain a rightward undercling right, climbing underneath the large roof past another bolt. At the far end of the traverse you gain the Split Pants gully. I belayed in the gully. You can either continue up Split Pants or rappel from a tree down to the first anchors of Cheetah, and then from there to the base. An excellent route!
Location
Start on Becky's Wall and where Becky's and the Fingertip Variation go straight up, climb right up under the large roof.
Protection
A selection of stoppers, and small cams up to a #2 camalot sized piece. There are sections where it is mandatory to punch it between gear!
This route is awesome! It was definitley cutting edge when done in pre sticky rubber EB's with pins! After leaving Beckey's wall and clipping the first bolt expect a 12+ foot run-out of delicate smears and seam liebacking before a hand size cam protects in the obvious pod. Clipping the second bolt is insecure, so be sure to protect in the pod first. After the 2nd bolt, one more hand size piece protects the second roof pod. You can build an anchor and belay from a stance at the right end of the roof (so you can see your seconding climber) with a purple tcu a small nut and a red metolius. To descend, perform an easy traverse right and rap the tree in the gully. With a singel rappel, letting the ends slip through on a 70m and a couple feet of down climbing barely puts you on the ledge for the start of what I believe is cheetah. Do it!
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