Squeeze My Lemon follows the nice hand crack in th...
Description
As you approach Lizard Head Wall, this climb is the obvious vegetated splitter hand crack located on the east side of the wall. Start in the bushes on a right slanting ledge that gains a flaring splitter crack. Fire up this, surmounting the large foliage to a beautiful hands splitter. Continue following this crack until it trends left and runs out. Make a step left into a short dihedral with......you guessed it......great hands again. Follow this to a tree anchor. Descend the route easily with a 60m rope from this anchor (the webbing could probably use replacing).
By Nathan Fisher Administrator Aug 27, 2006 rating: 5.7
Great climbing that is unfortunately interspersed with a couple of vegetated spots: a small tree and a series of bushes. The bushes being the worst. Very fun jams, and the traverse left climbed great as a hand traverse. This could really use a set of anchors to avoid totally killing the small belay tree.
By Sunny-D From: SLC, Utah Nov 26, 2007 rating: 5.7
The anchor for squeeze my lemon has been replaced and moved about 15 ft higher to finish out the crack. 2 bolt anchor. The tree is just about dead and is growing on a death block at the top of a flake. The block should be moved in the next week. WITH THE NEW ANCHORS ONE 60 METER ROPE MADE IT TO THE GROUND AND THE NEXT TIME WE CLIMBED UP THERE, A DIFFERENT 60 METER ROPE LEFT THE ENDS HANGING ABOUT 10 FT OFF THE GROUND. I am going back again this week with yet another 60 to try to get a better read. A 70 for sure reaches as well as using 2 ropes to get off. I have also cleaned up the crack so it no longer has any vegetation growing in it. This is a great 5.7 crack climb.
This makes a really good first 5.7 lead and is perfect for teaching people how to hand jam. Sews up with a standard rack using nuts and cams but an extra set of hand sizes takes some thought out of it. Bring a few long runners too. That block at the top looks fine but when you move the last cubic foot of the large spike behind that tree a seam appears showing how loose it is. The new anchor also makes it a lot easier and safer to TR Errant Edge with its nice red granite edge climbing.
Fun route with some pretty cool jamming. The only vegetation I saw on the entire route was the large tree growing in the crack 10 ft off the ground. A 60m rope from the new anchor reaches the ground just fine.
No stars in the Ruckman guide.....two now that its cleaned up.
By S. Gileadi From: Salt Lake City Mar 26, 2008 rating: 5.7
I think the Ruckman guide says about this route "Could this be the new Bushwhack Crack?"
Now that it has cleaned up, it definitely seems like a good possibility. Thanks Sunny D for your work making this route nice.
By S. Gileadi From: Salt Lake City May 13, 2008 rating: 5.7
Lead it today, our 60m rope just barely made it to the ground from the new anchors. So if your rope is a 'short' 60 meters, I'd recommend a two rope rappel or a 70.
Lizard Head Wall
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