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Castaway 
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Wilson-Love 

Castaway 

5.9+ R

   

FA: Stuart Ruckman & Libby Ellis
Type: 
Length: 1 pitch, 110 feet
Views: 106 page views

Submitted By: ASENDR on Nov 20, 2005


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Description 

This is the line of bolts on the east end of the Sail. Start directly below the first bolt ,which is about 20 ft. up in a shallow dihedral ,crossing the diagonal crack start for the Wilson- Love route. Some pro can be had in this crack, providing some psychological comfort. 5 more old school bolts pleced apart in old school fashion will get one to the top. There is a 1/4 bolt and a pin just below the top, when backed up I found to be a suitable top rope anchor, providing that one is using a 70 meter rope ,as I do not think a 60 will reach the ground. With a little more traffic, some new fat bolts, and a beefier anchor, this route may deserve anothe star. Great moves, interesting climbing and a spectacular position will reward one for the long approach.


Protection 

5 old bolts and some pro for the start



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By Mark Michaels
From: Midvale, UT
Nov 23, 2005

Fun route, but definitely needs bolts replaced! Rusty buttonhead drive ins!My advice: top rope this one!

By Tim Jones
From: Salt Lake City
Mar 22, 2008

Can place a # 2 friend before the first bolt and a # 1 friend in the flake in between the second and third bolt. This route was alot like leggo my eggo...except there were 2 crux moves that made it super fun to lead.