Not My Fault 

FA:  F.R.A. Tyler Phillips & Luke Douglas New Route:  Yes Type:  Mixed, Ice Consensus:  WI2-3 M3 [details] Length:  2 pitches, 230 feet Season:  Fat winters Views: 151 page views Submitted By: TP in SLC on Feb 6, 2008 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Not my Fault marked in red.

Description 

P1. Climb low angle thin ice over a couple bulges, aim for the chimney with the dagger growing out of it and belay at the base. W2/3-150+

P2. Climb up the back of the chimney using what works for progress. Clip a fixed KB at the "apex" of the chimney. Keep groping for the best pick placement over the lip (mine happened to be a clump of moss). Swing out to the right and bash in a killer L.A. from a good stance. A few more drytooling moves bring you to a low angle snow ramp, climb this for about 10 ft. Keep an eye out for the bolted rap station on the right under a mini roof of sorts. M3 60 ft.

We found no fixed gear on or around here.

Location 

This route lies on the quartzite/granite fault to the west of Scruffy proper. Your right tool will be on quartzite and your left will be on granite at times, pretty cool. Find a steep snow gulley leading to the base and posthole up this. At the top of the gulley go to the west about 100 ft.

Protection 

11cm screws and a few longer ones. (2) K.B.'s thin (1) L.A. medium. A light rack up to #3 camalot. A 70 meter rope will bring you back down with one rap.

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Luke D. mixing it up on the 2nd pitch.